Disclaimer
This travelogue is a personal account of visits to various institutions and meetings with individuals during the journey. The inclusion of any institution, scholar, or individual in this travelogue does not constitute an endorsement of their views, opinions, or activities. Our visits and interactions were solely for the purpose of gaining insights, exploring Islamic education and heritage, and fostering an understanding of the diverse efforts being made in the service of Islam.
Tuesday, 5th November 2024
As in the past two years, my third year at Madinah University brought with it the excitement of midterm break, and this time, we set our sights on exploring South Africa. Our itinerary was full of promise: starting in the lively city of Cape Town, moving on to the coastal beauty of Durban, venturing through the iconic Kruger National Park, and wrapping up in Johannesburg. After all the planning, the holiday had finally arrived.
On Tuesday night, we caught a 3:55 a.m. flight from Madinah to Addis Ababa on Ethiopian Airlines—a short three-hour journey. As we stepped off the plane, a cool morning breeze greeted us, with temperatures around 17°C—much colder than we had anticipated. After a quick layover, we boarded our next flight at 8:45 a.m. to Johannesburg, touching down at 1:10 p.m. Hungry from the journey, we took the chance to grab lunch at the famed Nando’s in Johannesburg Airport, said to be the best in South Africa. With a bit of time to spare, we relaxed before our final leg.
At 4:40 p.m., we boarded our last flight with Safair to Cape Town, arriving two hours later. Stepping off the plane, I was surprised by the cooler climate; though it was summer, a jacket was definitely needed in the evening. With our rental car ready, we made our way to Masjid al-Quds for Esha Salah. Later, we enjoyed a hearty dinner at Pedros before heading to our accommodation for some much-needed rest.
Cape Town was just the beginning of our South African adventure, and I could feel the excitement building for the days ahead.
Wednesday 6th November 2024
South Africa is located at the southernmost tip of the African continent, bordered by Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, and Eswatini. To the west lies the Atlantic Ocean, while the Indian Ocean stretches along the eastern coastline, making South Africa the meeting point of these two major oceans. This coastal positioning brings a variety of climates: Cape Town experiences a Mediterranean climate with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers; Durban has a subtropical climate, warm and humid; and Johannesburg enjoys a moderate highland climate with cooler winters and warm summers.
South Africa is renowned for its diverse landmarks and attractions. In Cape Town, the iconic Table Mountain offers panoramic views and scenic hikes. In Durban, the Golden Mile is a popular stretch of beach, and its Indian-influenced food culture is a highlight. Kruger National Park, one of Africa’s largest game reserves, provides opportunities to see the ‘Big Five’ and other wildlife in their natural habitat. Johannesburg, the country’s economic hub, is home to important sites such as the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill. South Africa’s combination of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and historical significance makes it a destination rich in experiences for all kinds of travellers.
Our day began early, with the sun rising over the stunning landscape of Cape Town at 5:40 a.m. After breakfast, we set off promptly at 7 a.m., committed to making the most of every day on this trip. Given the general advice to avoid travelling at night in South Africa, we planned to start each day early. Our first destination was Boulders Beach, a scenic 45-minute drive from central Cape Town.
Boulders Beach
Boulders Beach, nestled within the Cape Peninsula, is a sheltered beach surrounded by ancient granite boulders, which give the area its name. Known for its African penguin colony that settled in 1982, it has become a major tourist attraction as one of the few places where these endangered penguins can be observed closely in their natural habitat. Protected by Cape Nature Conservation as part of Table Mountain National Park, the penguin population has grown from two breeding pairs to around 3,000 birds, thanks in part to the prohibition of commercial fishing in False Bay, which has increased their food supply of sardines and anchovies. The beach is bordered by indigenous bush and the clear waters of False Bay, offering a unique environment where visitors can swim nearby, though direct access to the colony is restricted.
We accessed the penguin viewing area via a paid entrance leading to False Bay, with adult tickets priced at 215 R. A short walk along the boardwalk brought us to a stunning viewing deck just above the beach, offering close-up views of the penguins. The penguins numbered in the hundreds, and a fishy aroma lingered in the air due to their diet. Shortly afterward, we left promptly en route to our next stop, Cape Point. After a 30-minute drive, we arrived at Cape Point, one of South Africa’s southernmost viewpoints.
Cape Point
Cape Point Nature Reserve, located at the southwestern tip of Africa, is one of the most pristine and unspoiled areas in the world, renowned for its dramatic cliffs, pristine beaches, and breathtaking views. Home to a historic lighthouse that has operated since 1857, the reserve offers visitors a unique vantage point from the edge of a cliff, with stunning views of the surrounding coastline. Visitors can reach the lighthouse by tram or on foot from the public area, allowing them to fully experience the natural beauty and awe-inspiring landscapes that make Cape Point a truly remarkable destination.
We chose to walk up to the lighthouse, a scenic 15-minute journey offering stunning views all along the way. Alternatively, the tram is available for 50 R. The walk provided unspoiled views of the shoreline, with each viewpoint more impressive than the last. Upon reaching the top, we were rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree view of the Cape and the historic lighthouse. A signboard at the summit displayed distances to major cities worldwide, adding a unique touch to the experience.
Noordhoek Beach
Our next stop was Chapman’s Peak, a 55-minute drive away, but along the coastal road, we were drawn to the stunning golden sands of Noordhoek Beach. An 8 km stretch of sand along the Atlantic Cape coast, framed by Chapman’s Peak and the Kommetjie lighthouse. The beach is known for its natural beauty and popular horse-riding trails.
We paused briefly along the coast to take in the views and capture some photos. The southern coast of South Africa boasts a stunning landscape of golden beaches and crystal-clear waters—a sight that would continue to captivate us throughout our journey.
Chapmans Peak Drive
The road to Chapman’s Peak follows a breathtaking coastal route, with sections carved directly into the mountainside. This 9 km stretch from Hout Bay to Noordhoek, widely considered one of the most scenic drives in the world, winds along 114 curves overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Towering mountains rise on one side while sheer drops lead to the sea on the other, creating an atmosphere of magic and awe. Without official stopping points, we took the opportunity to pause at various spots along the way to soak in the views. Chapman’s Peak Drive, opened in 1922, was the brainchild of Sir Frederic de Waal, the first administrator of the Cape Province (for whom De Waal Drive in Cape Town is also named).
Fish on the Rocks
As afternoon drew near, we made our way to Fish on the Rocks, a popular fish and chips spot beloved by both locals and tourists. The menu features a variety of seafood, including fish and prawns. We decided on hake and chips, complemented by a serving of prawns.
The food was satisfying, and we quickly set off for Table Mountain. Originally, we had planned a two-day stay in Cape Town, with our itinerary spread across both days. However, with our youthful energy, we found ourselves on track to cover Cape Town’s main landmarks in just a single day. After a brief drive through the city, we arrived at our next destination: the iconic Table Mountain.
Table Mountain
Table Mountain, one of the Seven Wonders of Nature, is a striking flat-topped mountain that dominates the skyline of Cape Town, South Africa. This iconic landmark draws countless visitors who either take the scenic cableway or embark on a hike to its summit. As the most visited national park in South Africa, Table Mountain National Park welcomes 4.2 million visitors annually, offering a range of activities and breathtaking views for nature enthusiasts from around the world.
We arrived at 2:30 p.m. and quickly realised the extent of the rush. The queue for the cable cars up the mountain seemed endless, and we considered heading back to the hotel for a rest. Just as we were about to leave, though, we noticed the line beginning to shorten, and were informed it would only be a brief wait for the next group to go up.
We decided to purchase tickets, which were a hefty 450 R. Fortunately, they accepted International Student cards, bringing the cost down to 280 R. After a short wait, we boarded the cable car, which holds up to 65 people and rotates to provide a 360-degree view. As we ascended, we were met with breathtaking views of the city, mountains, and sea—truly mesmerising.
Once at the summit, we were treated to a stunning panorama. Various lookout points along the trail offered spectacular vistas, with clouds drifting by at eye level, creating a rare and unforgettable experience. After some time exploring, we took the cable car back down and made our way to one of Cape Town’s historical treasures—Bo-Kaap.
Bo-Kaap
The Bo-Kaap, or ‘above the Cape,’ is a historic and culturally rich neighbourhood in Cape Town, known for its colourful houses and cobblestone streets. Located on the slopes of Signal Hill, it is a centre of Cape Malay culture with a strong Muslim community. Bo-Kaap contains the largest concentration of pre-1850 architecture in South Africa, making it Cape Town’s oldest residential area.
The Bo-Kaap Museum, housed in a building from the 1760s, highlights the contributions of early Muslim settlers skilled in various trades. It preserves 19th-century furnishings and showcases the lifestyle of a prosperous Cape Muslim family, offering insights into the area’s heritage.
The museum closes at 5 p.m., and we arrived just 10 minutes before closing. Fortunately, we were allowed in to see a section displaying Turkish artefacts, a nod to the Ottoman Empire’s support for South Africa’s Muslim community by sending scholars. Today, Bo-Kaap’s 57% Muslim population is evident, with graffiti expressing solidarity with Palestine and Gaza. It’s well worth a visit.
After a brief stop, we headed to the hotel for a quick rest before setting out for Signal Hill, a favourite spot for sunset enthusiasts.
Signal Hill
Signal Hill, also known as Lion’s Rump, is a flat-topped hill in Cape Town near Lion’s Head and Table Mountain. Offering 360° views of the city and ocean, it’s a popular spot for sunrise and sunset, where you can enjoy Cape Town bathed in golden and pink light as the sun dips beyond the horizon.
We arrived about 20 minutes before sunset and took some time to soak in the views. From the hilltop, Table Mountain stands majestically, with clouds cascading over its edge—a truly breathtaking sight with the sea on one side and mountains on the other. Cape Town recently earned second place in global rankings of the best cities to live in.
The sun set at 7:20 p.m.; we watched it dip below the horizon before departing as the moon rose. On the way down, we paused by an intriguing building resembling a mosque, which turned out to be a tomb. Signal Hill is home to several karamats, or tombs, of Muslim missionaries and religious leaders. The most notable of these is a white square structure with a green dome, dedicated to Sheikh Mohamed Hassen Ghaibie (Shah al-Qadri), a follower of Sheikh Yusuf, an Indonesian Muslim of noble Makassar descent. Sheikh Yusuf was exiled to the Cape of Good Hope, which resulted in his establishing Islam in the Cape.
For Maghrib Salah, we attended Auwal Masjid. Established in 1794, it was the first masjid established in South Africa.
Auwal Masjid
The Auwal Masjid was originally a warehouse owned by a free Muslim slave, Coridon van Ceylon. After Coridon’s death, his wife, Trijn van de Kaap, sold the property to their daughter, Saartjie van de Kaap. Saartjie and her husband, Achmat van Bengalen, permitted the transformation of the warehouse into a masjid (mosque). The first imam was Imam Abdullah Abdas Salaam, known as Tuan Guru, or ‘Master Teacher’. He was a prince from Tidore in the Ternate Islands, Indonesia, who was exiled to the Cape for resisting Dutch occupation and endured a 13-year imprisonment on Robben Island.
Tuan Guru’s legacy includes establishing a Muslim school on Coridon’s property, catering to the needs of the local enslaved and free black Muslim community. He taught Islam and produced several handwritten copies of the Quran from memory. The founding of the Auwal Masjid was a significant achievement, providing a place of worship and community support for Muslims at a time when their religious freedoms were severely restricted. Full religious freedom was only granted on 25 July 1804. Tuan Guru passed away in 1807 at the age of 95, leaving behind his wife, Tania van de Kaap, and two sons. His only surviving son, Abdullah, continued his father’s legacy as imam of the Auwal Masjid. To this day, the ownership of the Auwal Masjid is registered in the name of Saartjie van de Kaap, preserving its historical roots.
One of the most remarkable legacies of South African Muslims is the handwritten Quran dating back to the late 1700s. This Quran was meticulously written from memory by Imam Abdullah Qadi Abdus Salaam. Exiled to the Cape, Tuan Guru’s dedication to preserving the Quranic text led him to create this masterpiece entirely from memory. This Quran is also held within the Masjid and was kindly shown to us.
The Butcher’s Wife
After a long day, it was finally time for dinner. We chose The Butcher’s Wife, a highly recommended halal restaurant with a history dating back to the 1930s. The menu was diverse, offering everything from pizzas and pastas to grills. The food was expertly prepared and absolutely delicious.
After dinner, we returned to the hotel to rest, readying ourselves for the long day of travel ahead.
Thursday, 7th November 2024
We had another early start, leaving Cape Town at 8 a.m. after breakfast for a 1-hour and 45-minute drive to Hermanus. This was a last-minute stop we added on our way to L’Agulhas, the southernmost point of South Africa.
Hermanus
The drive to Hermanus was stunning—a road that wound through the mountains with intermittent views of the coast. We passed numerous vineyards along the way, adding to the scenic beauty.
Hermanus, originally known as Hermanuspietersfontein until it was shortened in 1902 for postal convenience, is a town on the southern coast of South Africa’s Western Cape province. Renowned for its Southern Right whale watching during the winter and spring seasons, it has also become a popular retirement destination. The town is somewhat reminiscent of a UK coastal village. Sadly, we didn’t spot any whales and left shortly after a wander around the town.
L’Agulhas
Just 1 hour and 30 minutes from Hermanus lies L’Agulhas, the southernmost coastal village of South Africa. This rugged headland in the Western Cape marks the geographic southern tip of Africa and is recognised by the International Hydrographic Organization as the dividing line between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Although there’s no visible boundary between the two oceans, a coastal monument symbolises this divide. Beyond this point, the nearest land is Antarctica, 4,200 km away.
Garden Route
After a quick stop at a service station for fuel and snacks, we continued to Mossel Bay, the starting point of the renowned Garden Route. This scenic 300-kilometre (190-mile) stretch of coastline extends from Mossel Bay to the mouth of the Storms River, winding through areas of remarkable natural beauty, including George, Knysna, and Plettenberg Bay. The route features world-class beaches, pristine lagoons, lush forests, breathtaking viewpoints, and stunning coastal roads.
Mossel Bay
We arrived in the harbour town of Mossel Bay at 5:30 p.m. to pray Salah and stopped at Masjid as-Sabireen. A local community member shared that Mossel Bay is home to around 250 Muslim families and has just one mosque, while there are about 150 churches in the area. After completing our prayers, we continued to our first stop on the Garden Route, Victoria Bay.
Victoria Bay (George)
Victoria Bay is a small, picturesque cove on South Africa’s Garden Route, located between George and Wilderness in the Western Cape. The bay, due to its waves, is popular among surfers. Originally called Gunter Bay, it was renamed Victoria Bay in 1847 in honour of Queen Victoria. As sunset approached, we took in the picturesque surroundings before heading to Masjid at-Rahmah for Maghrib Salah.
Masjid ar-Rahmah
We prayed Maghrib Salah at Masjid ar-Rahmah, where we had the pleasure of meeting Mufti Shafiq Jakura, a student of Mufti Taqi Uthmani who collaborates with Mufti Zubair Bhayat at Darul Ihsan in Durban. He was aware of ‘The Haramayn Guide- Madinah, and in our brief interaction, warmly invited us to visit him in Durban.
Nana Bhai’s Foods
After a long day of travelling, it was time for dinner. We opted for something unique—Nana Bhai’s, a place known for halal homemade Indian food. To our surprise, it was actually someone’s home, transformed into a cosy home-based business. Enjoying homemade food while travelling brought a comforting sense of home.
Our hotel was an hour away in Knysna, one of the key stops along the Garden Route. We set off promptly after dinner and arrived in Knysna by 10 p.m. Our hotel overlooked the harbour and had a beautiful view of the harbour and its boats.
Friday, 8th November 2024
After two busy days, Friday was laid-back with a relaxed morning and a late breakfast. With extra time from cutting one day in Cape Town, we set out from the hotel at 11 a.m. to explore some of the local spots around Knysna before Jumu’ah Salah.
Knysna
Knysna, on South Africa’s Garden Route, is renowned for its beautiful lagoons and lush forests. It has various stunning viewpoints of the lagoons and ocean. We checked out of the hotel at 11:30 a.m. and planned to cover a few viewpoints of the Garden Route before Jumu’ah Salah in order to save some time.
Margaret’s Viewpoint
Our first stop was Margaret’s Viewpoint, offering a breathtaking panorama of the Knysna Lagoon and Lake Brenton. This spot is named after Margaret Addinal, a well-known conservationist from Knysna, who tirelessly campaigned for the establishment of the viewpoint.
Whale Spotter’s Viewpoint
On our way to Buffel’s Bay, we made an unplanned stop at a roadside viewpoint designed for whale watching. Here, we met a local with binoculars in hand who worked for a whale-watching company. As the spotter on the cliffs, his role was to radio the boats whenever he spotted whales, guiding them to the right locations for the tourists onboard. Unfortunately, we had missed the spectacle by a week, as the whales had already passed through on their migratory route. In the distance, we could see the small village of Buffel’s Bay, marking the southernmost point of the area.
Buffel’s Bay
Buffel Baai (also known as Buffel’s Bay or Buffalo Bay) is a charming seaside village about 20 kilometres from Knysna. It is named after the bay that stretches east of the village.
The coast here is stunning, with white sandy beaches stretching for miles and waves that are perfect for surfing. As Jumu’ah approached, we headed back to Knysna to join the Jumu’ah Salah at Knysna Central Mosque. The masjid was still undergoing construction, though Salah was being performed there.
Kranshoek Viewpoint
After Jumuʿah Salah, we set off promptly for our next stop along the Garden Route: Kranshoek Viewpoint, a 40-minute drive from Knysna. Kranshoek is a privately managed viewpoint that requires an entry fee. As with other parks in the area, the cost is lower for locals than for international visitors. Additionally, frequent visitors can subscribe to a ‘Wild Card’, which provides unlimited access to all participating parks for the duration of the subscription.
The entry fee grants access to the viewpoint and the hiking trails, including a floral trail showcasing indigenous plants and flowers. The viewpoint itself offers a breathtaking view of the coastline and gorge. For those seeking a bit more adventure, there is a zip line that provides a unique vantage point of the waterfall, which is otherwise inaccessible.
With several more stops ahead on our Garden Route journey, we made our way promptly to Plettenberg Bay, eager to continue our exploration.
Plettenberg Bay
After a 30-minute drive, we arrived at Lookout Beach, Plettenberg Bay. Plettenberg Bay’s beaches are celebrated for their golden sands, crystal-clear waters, and stunning natural beauty. Lookout Beach is a popular spot, with visitors occasionally treated to sightings of dolphins and whales. Our next stop was Nature’s Valley, a 35-minute drive.
Nature’s Valley
Another gem along the Garden Route is Nature’s Valley, a charming coastal village with lush forests, a serene lagoon, and a wide, unspoiled beach. On a quiet Friday afternoon, the beach was beautifully deserted. The water was pristine. After a brief stroll along the shore, we departed at 5:00 pm, making our way towards the iconic Bloukrans Bridge.
Bloukrans Bridge
At 5:30 p.m., we arrived at the renowned Bloukrans Bridge, an engineering marvel along South Africa's Garden Route. Standing 216 metres high, it is the world’s highest commercial bungee jumping site, spanning the dramatic Bloukrans River gorge. Unfortunately, all activities, including the iconic bungee jump and the opportunity to walk beneath the bridge, had already closed by the time we arrived. Nonetheless, we took a moment to admire the stunning surroundings and explore the Guinness World Records associated with the bridge. After a brief stop, we continued our journey to the final destination on the Garden Route: Storms River.
Storms River
Storms River, just a 20-minute drive from Bloukrans Bridge, is a gem along South Africa's Garden Route, renowned for its iconic suspension bridge at the river mouth. The bridge offers breathtaking views of the rugged coastline and lush forests, and the area is a hub for activities like kayaking, ziplining, and hiking. Unfortunately, upon our arrival, we learned that the park required pre-booking and had already closed for the day. Despite our best efforts to gain entry, we were unable to visit this spectacular site. Disappointed but undeterred, we continued our journey to Port Elizabeth, a two-hour drive away.
Port Elizabeth
Port Elizabeth, now known as Gqeberha, is a key city in South Africa’s Eastern Cape province and an important industrial and economic hub. Located on the Algoa Bay coastline, it is a gateway to the Garden Route. Renowned for its friendly atmosphere, it also holds historical significance as one of South Africa’s oldest cities.
We arrived in Port Elizabeth at 7:00 p.m. and were warmly welcomed to dinner at a friend’s home. Our host, turned out to be an incredibly captivating person, and before we knew it, four hours had passed, filled with stories of his travels around the world. Having journeyed through over 35 countries in his prime, he shared tales of his adventures, unique experiences, and priceless travel advice. As fellow travel enthusiasts, we were particularly grateful for his three key tips: first, to travel light; second, to choose companions who are well-suited to your nature; and third— to travel whilst young (preferably when unmarried).
With an early start planned for the next day, we retired for the evening, inspired and ready for what lay ahead.
Saturday 9th November 2024
Saturday started early, with us leaving the guest house at 5:30 a.m. to head to the shooting range. Our friend, like many regular shooters, has a subscription at a 24/7 range.
Shooting Range
We visited the Falcon Firearm Training Academy in Port Elizabeth, arriving at 6 a.m. The academy is securely gated, allowing entry only for subscription holders; access is controlled through turnstiles that open once the permit holder scans their fingerprint. At the range, we shot a Beretta, a Canik handgun, 308 Rifle, and shotgun. For most of us, it was our first time handling firearms. We spent just over an hour at the range before heading to South Blvd Cafe, located near the port, for breakfast.
The Majlis
After breakfast, we set out to meet a prominent South African scholar residing in Port Elizabeth—a figure we had heard much about but had yet to meet in person. A friend had kindly arranged the visit, and we arrived at his home at 10 a.m.
His home was strikingly simple, reminiscent of the 90s. The front room had been converted into a modest office, with hundreds of his publications neatly displayed. We were then guided to his library, where he greeted us warmly. The library itself was a testament to his lifelong dedication to knowledge; every inch of the wall shelves was filled with books, newsletters, and old, carefully bound volumes. The scholar, dressed in patched clothing and visibly detached from worldly luxuries, welcomed us with a quiet humility.
He emphasized the importance of not only seeking knowledge but also acting upon it, sharing profound insights on the subject. Reflecting on the nature of educational institutions, he remarked, “The Prophet received revelation in the solitude and darkness of Cave Hira. Light came in darkness. The closer an institution is to the environment of Cave Hira—marked by solitude and detachment from the world—the easier it is for a person to gain the light of knowledge.”
Now in his eighties, the scholar has devoted much of his life to the service of Islam, propagating the religion and establishing Makaatib in developing countries to lay the foundation for future generations. He shared his experiences around the world, recounting interactions with remarkable personalities he studied under and those who visited South Africa. His quiet, detached nature brought to mind the Companions of the Prophet, especially Abu Dharr, known for his asceticism. Truly, he seemed like a man from another era.
A close family member shared a memorable story about him: while travelling for Umrah, he had chosen to sit blindfolded for an eight-hour flight, with a note taped to his forehead reading, “I do not need anything, please do not disturb,” to protect his gaze and avoid any unnecessary interactions.
The scholar graciously spent over an hour with us, reminiscing and engaging in heartfelt conversation. As afternoon approached, we left his humble abode, deeply inspired, and continued on to our next stop—the Kragga Kamma Game Park.
Kragga Kamma Game Park
Kragga Kamma Game Park, located in Port Elizabeth, is a privately owned reserve that offers visitors the chance to see Africa’s ‘Big Five’—lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and African buffalo—up close. Unfortunately, we missed the lions and rhinos during our visit. Although the drive through the park typically takes around two hours, we had a 4 p.m. flight to Durban and completed it in just one hour. After a quick lunch at Nando’s, we headed to the airport to return our rental car and prepare for our flight to Durban.
Durban
Durban, located in South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province, is the country’s third-largest city and a major economic and industrial hub. Positioned along the Indian Ocean, it is renowned for its rich cultural diversity, including strong Zulu, Indian, and colonial influences. Durban is also one of Africa’s busiest ports, playing a crucial role in trade and commerce.
At 4:30, we departed from Port Elizabeth for Durban on a Fly Safair flight, arriving an hour later at 5:30. A friend kindly picked us up from the airport, and we headed straight to Masjid Hilal to attend a Qir’ah programme. This special evening featured some of the most prominent Qurra’, who had gathered for an inspiring night dedicated to the recitation of the Qur’an.
Masjid Hilal
We arrived at Masjid Hilal around 7 p.m., just as the Quran programme began, running from Maghrib to Esha. The gathering featured eminent Qurra from South Africa, including Qari Saeed Masood, Qari Sufyan Tailor, and others. We were also joined by Qari Abdullah Desai from the UK, who beautifully recited verses of the Quran.
Particularly impressive was Qari Saeed Masood’s Qir’ah, which is truly remarkable. He has a natural and effortless flow that captivates the listener. His voice carries the verses beautifully, without any strain or exertion. The simplicity and grace of his recitation make it both soothing and powerful. We stayed until Esha Salah before accepting an invitation to a traditional South African barbecue (braai), where we enjoyed the warm hospitality of the evening. Following the meal, we were treated to dessert at Milky Lane, a charming spot along the coast.
Sunday 10th November 2024
On Sunday, we had a leisurely start to the day. After breakfast, we departed the hotel at 11:00 a.m. and headed towards Madrassah Taleemuddeen in Isipingo Beach, located just a 25-minute drive away.
Madrassah Taleemuddeen Isipingo Beach
Madrassah Taleemuddeen, located in Isipingo Beach, is a renowned Islamic institution specialising in advanced studies of Islamic theology, jurisprudence, and related sciences. Offering full boarding facilities, it also serves as a hub for scholarly activities, regularly hosting lectures and programmes that foster Islamic learning and practice. Molana Yusuf Motala also taught at the Madrassah during his visit in 1996/1997 to see his mother. During his extended stay, he continued teaching Sahih al-Bukhari.
Although we had planned to meet Mufti Ebrahim Salejee, a senior teacher and principal of the madrassah, he was unavailable due to other commitments. Instead, we had the privilege of meeting Molana Ilyas Patel, the brother of the late Molana Yunus Patel, one of South Africa’s most esteemed Islamic scholars. Molana Yunus Patel devoted his life to spiritual reformation and education, delivering inspiring lectures and authoring several influential books. His passing on July 12, 2011, in Makkah Mukarramah, after performing Tawaf and Maghrib Salah, was a moment of great loss for the Muslim community. He was laid to rest in Jannatul Mu’alla, Makkah.
During our time with Molana Ilyas, he offered profound advice which Haji Bhai Padia would give, encouraging to remain steadfast in the work of Deen with the words, “Karte Raho, Darte Raho, Rote Raho, Mangte Raho” (Keep doing, keep fearing Allah, keep crying, and keep asking from Allah). After performing Dhur Salah, we had the opportunity to meet a few more teachers at the madrassah before departing taking leave.
Biltong
One of South Africa’s popular delicacies is Biltong, a traditional South African snack made from air-dried, spiced meat, typically beef or game such as ostrich or kudu. Prepared by marinating the meat in vinegar and a blend of spices like coriander, black pepper, and salt, it is then air-dried for several days, resulting in a tender texture and rich flavour.
Just before our 2:00 PM meeting with Mufti Husain Kadodia, we made a quick stop at a local supermarket known for its extensive variety of halal biltong. With our scheduled meeting time fast approaching, we left promptly to ensure we arrived on time.
Tahawi Books
Mufti Husain is the founder of Tahawi Books, a bookstore dedicated to supplying South Africa with Arabic texts, particularly those focusing on Islamic sciences.
Mufti Husain is a remarkable scholar, a walking encyclopaedia, with deep expertise across various Islamic disciplines. After completing his initial studies in South Africa, he pursued further knowledge under Shaykh Murabitul Hajj in Mauritania and also studied in Syria. He shared fond memories and vivid experiences from his time there, describing the unique living conditions—dwelling in a tent in the heart of the desert, where temperatures could drop to 0°C at night and soar to 40°C during the day. He recounted how they would walk for kilometres to collect water and remain vigilant for scorpions, whose sting could be fatal within an hour. Mauritania’s approach to learning emphasises the memorisation of vast amounts of knowledge. Each day, students recite memorised lines to their teacher, receive explanations, write their lessons on chalkboards, then memorise them and clear the boards for the following day. Mufti Husain noted how Mauritanians are masters of the Arabic language, making Mauritania ideal for those pursuing specialisation in language and lexicon. For sciences such as Hadith and Fiqh, however, he suggested that the subcontinent offers better resources.
Mufti Husain was familiar with my book, The Haramayn Guide: Al-Madinah al-Munawwarah, which he praised, and he expressed interest in the forthcoming guide on Makkah.
In his own quest for rare books and manuscripts, Mufti Husain travelled extensively in the early 2000s, reaching places as far as Quetta, Pakistan, where he unearthed many rare and invaluable texts. Today, he maintains a vast digital library of rare manuscripts, amassed over years and amounting to terabytes of files. After spending over an hour in Mufti Husain’s enlightening company, we took our leave and proceeded to visit Darul Ihsan.
Darul Ihsan
Darul Ihsan Humanitarian Centre in Durban supports the community through welfare aid, educational programs, and empowerment initiatives. Its efforts include food distribution, rent assistance, and feeding schemes, alongside Islamic education and Jumu’ah bayans, making it a key resource for local upliftment.
Mufti Shafiq Jakura kindly arranged for Darul Ihsan to be opened for us, even though the senior scholars were out of town attending a conference. We were given a tour of the impressive facilities and introduced to their extensive relief work, both locally and internationally, with a particular emphasis on supporting the local community. During our visit, we also explored the bookstore. As the official distributor for Turath Publishing in South Africa, Darul Ihsan fortunately had a few remaining copies of my book, which I was able to purchase and bring back with me to Madinah.
Smokin’ Joes
We were recommended to visit Smokin’ Joe’s in Durban, a renowned burger spot that has earned international acclaim for its exceptional offerings. In 2022, their signature creation, the Gypsy King burger, was ranked 12th on Big 7 Travel’s list of the world’s best burgers. The food lived up to its reputation, standing out as one of the best burger experiences we’ve had.
Madrassah Hamidiyyah
At 6:00 PM, we arrived at Madrassah Hamidiyyah, one of the prominent madrasahs in Durban that serves the local community and offers the esteemed programme for students. We were warmly welcomed by the principal, Molana Naeem Motala, whose hospitality and gracious demeanour set the tone for our visit. Before Maghrib Salah, we spent some time in his company, benefitting from his wisdom, advice, and shared experiences. After offering Maghrib Salah at the madrasah, we were given a tour of its impressive library. Molana Naeem shared his vision of keeping the library accessible at all times to encourage a love for reading among students. They have thoughtfully designed the space, incorporating comfortable seating areas and stocking a diverse selection of books to cater to varied interests.
The madrasah’s legacy and academic system are remarkable. Among its esteemed teachers was the late Mufti Ebrahim Desai, whose contributions to Islamic scholarship are well-known. Currently, Mufti Hussain Kadodia is also part of the teaching faculty. The lineup of teachers is truly commendable.
Al-Ma’rifah Ulama Resource Centre
At 8:00 p.m., we arrived at the Al-Ma’rifah Ulama Resource Centre, where we were warmly welcomed by Molana Ismail Moosa. The centre was established to support graduates from Islamic seminaries in pursuing specialised research, with a focus on areas like Tafseer and theology. Expertly crafted courses and textbooks are being developed to enhance scholarship in these fields.
Molana Ismail Moosa is deeply involved in comparative religion and has engaged in debates with representatives of other faiths. He divides his day between the Al-Ma’rifah Centre and the Islamic Propagation Centre International (IPCI), an institution founded by the renowned da’wah figure, Sheikh Ahmed Deedat. Since Sheikh Deedat’s passing, IPCI’s comparative religion activities had declined, but Molana Ismail Moosa is working tirelessly to revive them. After a brief yet enriching meeting, we proceeded to Masjid Nurul Huda for Esha, where we were scheduled to meet Mufti Advocate Imran Vawda.
Masjid Nurul Huda
We arrive at Masjid Nurul Huda for Esha Salah. After Salah, we meet Mufti Advocate Emraan Vawda. Mufti Emraan Vawda is a prominent South African Islamic scholar and advocate, known for his extensive contributions to Islamic jurisprudence and community leadership. He serves as the Head Mufti of the Jamiatul Ulama KwaZulu-Natal (KZN), where he oversees the issuance of Fatawa (Islamic legal rulings) and provides guidance on various religious matters. In addition to his scholarly work, Mufti Vawda has been actively involved in promoting Shariah-compliant financial solutions. He played a pivotal role in the establishment of Al-Mabroor Projects in 2011, alongside the late Mufti Ebrahim Desai. This initiative offers the Muslim community investment opportunities that adhere to Islamic financial principles. Mufti Vawda is also recognized for his legal expertise as an advocate of the High Court of South Africa.
After a brief interaction with Mufti Emraan, we took our leave and headed to Vapor Cafe for dinner. Following a satisfying meal, we retired for the night, preparing ourselves for the long day ahead.
Monday 11th November 2024
On Monday, we wrapped up our stay in Durban, leaving our hotel at 7:00 a.m. to catch a flight to Johannesburg—a brief stopover on our way to Kruger National Park.
Kruger National Park
We boarded the 8:40 a.m. flight and landed in Johannesburg by 9:40 a.m. After hiring a car, we began the 4-hour, 45-minute drive to Kruger, entering the park via the Malelane Gate. Kruger has a daily entry fee, which is fairly steep. As we entered, we were greeted by sightings of impalas, giraffes, marabou storks, vervet monkeys, common warthogs, African wild dogs, waterbucks, elephants, kudus, zebras, and hyenas.
Kruger National Park is one of Africa’s largest and most famous game reserves, spanning over 19,000 square kilometres in northeastern South Africa and bordering Mozambique to the east and Zimbabwe to the north. Known for its rich wildlife, including the ‘Big Five’ (lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos, and buffalos), the park offers diverse landscapes from savannahs to riverine forests. Established in 1926, it provides a range of accommodations from luxury lodges to campsites. The park offers both self-drive and guided safaris.
We arrived at Bucklers Lodge, located on the banks of Crocodile River, our accommodation for the night, at 6:00 p.m. After a quick dinner, we turned in early to prepare for the adventures awaiting us the next morning.
Tuesday 12th November 2024
With animal sightings often reported at sunrise, we left the lodge at 5:00 a.m. and entered the park through the Crocodile Bridge Gate. Our primary goal was to catch sight of lions.
On the way, we spotted a black wildebeest, and soon learned from fellow visitors that lions are frequently seen along the S28 Road within Kruger. As we made our way, we were thrilled to encounter three cheetahs, fresh from a hunt—two of them were engrossed in their meal. After a brief stop to observe, we continued toward Lower Sabie Road.
Our luck held as we finally spotted a lioness and a lion. A ranger nearby explained that it was mating season, a rare occurrence as it only happens every two years. During this period, they mate every 20–30 minutes for a 3–4-day cycle, with up to 50 encounters a day. Captivated by this extraordinary sight, we stayed to witness them in action—a fleeting event that lasts less than a minute.
Marble Hall
After spending about five hours in the park, we left at 10:00 a.m. and headed to Marble Hall, where my maternal grandfather is buried. The journey from the Paul Kruger Gate, which we used to exit the park, took six hours, and we arrived in Marble Hall at 4:00 p.m., heading first to Marble Hall Masjid.
At the masjid, we were warmly welcomed by Molana Imran Lamalia, who had known my grandfather well from his days at Darul Uloom Zakariya in Johannesburg. He shared cherished memories of my grandfather, whom they affectionately called 'Chacha', recalling his role as a supervisor at the madrassah. Later, my grandfather moved to Marble Hall, where he spent several years before passing away in 2006. Since his passing, no immediate family member had visited his grave, so my mother (may Allah grant her a long and healthy life) had requested that I visit her father’s resting place. This visit was deeply meaningful for me.
Molana Imran first took us to see the small room where my grandfather had lived, along with an adjacent prayer room that served as the masjid for the very small Muslim community in the area. My grandfather had moved to South Africa in the early 90s to support his family back home and spent the final years of his life far from them. Marble Hall has a relatively small Muslim community; today, it consists of about 80 members, and during my grandfather’s time, it was even smaller. The adjacent room served as the community’s masjid.
We then went to the graveyard, a small plot with no more than 25 graves, none of which were labelled. Molana Imran explained that plaques were often stolen, similar to copper taps and roofing. Fortunately, he knew the exact location of my grandfather’s grave. We paid our respects and then continued our journey to Johannesburg, an additional two-hour drive.
Johannesburg
We arrived in Johannesburg at 6:30 p.m., went for dinner at Calisto’s in Sandton Mall, and then headed to our hotel to rest for the night.
Wednesday 13th November 2024
Wednesday began with another early morning as we had an appointment for breakfast with Mufti Radha ul-Haque, the Shaykhul Hadith of Darul Uloom Zakariya.
Darul Uloom Zakariya
Darul Uloom Zakariya, established in 1983, is a renowned Islamic seminary situated in Lenasia, approximately 20 kilometres south of Johannesburg. Named in honour of its spiritual guide, Molana Zakariya Kandhelwi, the institution was inspired by his visit to South Africa in 1981, during which he was asked to pray for the establishment of a higher religious learning centre. This vision materialised with the acquisition of a 24-acre plot on the outskirts of Lenasia, where the seminary was founded. Today, Darul Uloom Zakariya offers a diverse curriculum through its faculties, including Tahfidh (Qur’anic memorisation), Alimiyyah (Islamic scholarship), Tajweed and Qira’at (Qur’anic phonetics and recitation), and Ifta (Islamic jurisprudence).
We arrived at 6:15 a.m., spent some time with him, and shared breakfast. Despite his age, the Shaykh is widely travelled and continues to visit new countries. We asked him, “What should a person’s intention be when travelling?” He replied, “To see the creation of Allah and appreciate His grandeur.” He shared fond memories of his travels, and I was also able to meet my cousin, who studied under the Shaykh and now remains in his Khidmah while studying and teaching at the madrassah.
As the lessons were about to begin at 7:00 a.m., Mufti Sahib excused himself, and we continued our exploration of the madrassah, meeting with several of the teachers. Many of the senior teachers warmly remembered my grandfather from the time he served at the madrassah. They shared fond anecdotes and reflected on the lasting impact he had during his tenure there.
I also had the pleasure of meeting Molana Abdullah Bhamjee, the son of Molana Mohammad Bhamjee, a very close friend of my grandfather’s. It was Molana Mohammad who initially invited my grandfather to South Africa. The two had first met in Taraj, India, while studying together, and their friendship endured until the very end. Molana Mohammad later went on to study under Molana Yusuf Binnori in Pakistan and eventually became the principal of the madrassah. Molana Abdullah shared heartfelt memories of my grandfather, recalling his impeccable character and integrity. He specifically noted that during my grandfather’s tenure as the madrassah supervisor, not a single cent was ever misplaced, a testament to his trustworthy nature. Molana Abdullah himself studied at the madrassah in the 1980s and chose to remain, now serving as a teacher.
We were then taken on a tour of the madrassah, including its library and museum. The museum was particularly fascinating, featuring replicas of items mentioned in the Hadith, allowing visitors to visualise and better understand them. One of the highlights was a detailed model of Madinah during the time of the Prophet ﷺ, complete with the old masjid and the homes of the Companions. The model included lights to identify individual homes and their owners, reminiscent of the model found in the Dar al-Madinah Museum in Madinah.
Next, we visited the library, which houses an extensive collection of books. The librarian, Molana Uthman Bastawi, graciously guided us through. He is responsible for the Tahqeeq (research) and Takhreej (referencing) of Fatawa Darul Uloom Zakariyya, the renowned Fatawa compendium.
Daruloom Aazadville
At 11am, we arrived in Aazadville, a town in the Gauteng province of South Africa, established in 1965. Initially developed as a township for the Indian community during the apartheid era, Aazadville has since transformed into a vibrant and diverse suburb. The town is home to Darul Uloom Aazadville, officially known as Madrasah Arabia Islamia, a renowned Islamic seminary established in 1982. The institute offers extensive programs in Islamic studies, including the Alimiyyah Programme, Tahfidh and Ifta, catering to both local and international students.
We were warmly welcomed and shown around the seminary by one of the students from the UK, though we were informed there isn’t currently a group of UK students studying here. During the visit, we had the opportunity to meet some of the teachers. However, the principal, Mufti Abdul Hamid, was only available after Dhur Salah, so we planned to return later for the prayer and meeting.
In the meantime, we visited the previous Shaykh al-Hadith of the institute, Molana Fadhlur-Rahman al-A'azami who now teaches at his own institute within Aazadville.
Idarah Dawatul Haq Trust
Molana Fadhlur-Rahman al-A'azami originally from Uttar Pradesh, India, is a master of Arabic, Persian, and Islamic sciences, he specialised in Hadith and Fiqh under the guidance of renowned scholars, including Shaykh Habib ar-Rahman al-A ‘Azmi He was Invited to South Africa in 1986, and served as Shaykh al-Hadith at Madrasah Arabia Islamia in Aazadville, where he taught major Hadith works such as Sahih al-Bukhari and Sunan at-Tirmidhi. A prolific author, he has written over 40 books, contributing significantly to Islamic education in South Africa and continuing to be a respected figure in the scholarly community. Currently, he continues to teach Hadith at his institute, Idarah Dawatul Haqq Trust, in Aazadville. We had the privilege of briefly meeting him before he left for his class. During our conversation, he inquired about our backgrounds and studies. Shaykh Khalid Marghub was also present at his lessons.
After meeting him, we returned to Daruloom Aazadville for Dhur Salah. Following the prayer, we met with the principal, Molana Abdul Hamid, who shared valuable advice. He emphasised the importance of acting upon knowledge and staying steadfast on the straight path, especially in the challenging times we face. He reminded us of the need to safeguard our Iman and remain committed to our faith.
Jamiatul Ulama South Africa
At 2:45 p.m., we arrived at the Jamiatul Ulama South Africa (JUSA) head office, located in central Johannesburg. Established in 1923, JUSA is a prominent Islamic organisation dedicated to serving the South African Muslim community through religious guidance, education, and social services. Known for its Tas-heel educational programmes, humanitarian efforts in crisis regions, Zakat assistance, and Radio Islam for community outreach, JUSA celebrated its centenary of service in 2023.
We were warmly welcomed by Molana Ahmad Mia, the vice treasurer who oversees the organisation's daily operations. Molana Ahmad shared that he completed his entire Alimiyyah programme in the UK and is the only Darul Uloom Bury graduate in South Africa. He outlined JUSA’s extensive services and provided insight into the challenges faced by Muslims in South Africa. He then gave us a tour of the office, highlighting their impressive setup, which includes a dedicated fatwa department where muftis specialise in areas like finance, medical ethics, and other disciplines. JUSA has also recently introduced a daytime Alimiyyah programme.
Grave of Mufti Mahmood Hasan Gangohi
At 4:30 p.m. we arrive at Elsburg cemetery where Mufti Mahmood Hasan Gangohi is buried. Mufti Mahmood Hasan Gangohi was a prominent Indian Islamic scholar and jurist, educated under scholars like Molana Hussain Ahmad Madani and Molana Zakariyya Kandhelwi. He served as Principal of Jami ul Uloom, Kanpur, and later as Grand Mufti of Darul Uloom Deoband and Mazahir Uloom, where he issued thousands of fatwas, compiled into the 32-volume Fatawa Mahmoodiyah. He was a spiritual guide to many, his influence reached South Africa, where he passed away in 1996 and was buried in Elsburg, near Johannesburg.
The Muslim section of the cemetery is situated to one side, exclusively dedicated to Muslim graves. It is well-maintained and clean. After offering our Salam, we departed shortly thereafter to make a brief stop in Benoni to visit a student from the UK.
Madrassah Uloom Shar’iyyah, Benoni
We arrived at Madrassah Ulum Shar’iyyah at 5:00 p.m., an institution founded and led by Mufti Ishaq Bhana. Renowned for its specialisation in Takhassus fi’l-Hadith (Advanced Studies in Hadith), the madrassah attracts students from across the globe, including many from the UK who come to further their expertise in this field under Mufti Bhana’s guidance. A friend currently studying here kindly gave us a tour of the classrooms and library. Intrigued, I asked about the boarding arrangements and was surprised to learn that up to 36 students share a single room!
With dinner graciously arranged at the residence of Molana Ebrahim Pandor, we took our leave.
Molana Ebrahim Pandor
Molana Ebrahim Pandor, a distinguished Islamic scholar and prominent disciple of Mufti Mahmood Hasan Gangohi, under whom he trained for over 20 years. As a khalifah of Mufti Gangohi, Moulana Pandor has devoted his life to teaching, delivering lectures, and providing spiritual guidance. He serves as a teacher at the Jamiah Ulama Institute and is a member of its Shura board. We arrived before Maghrib Salah, performed our prayers at a local Musalla, and joined Molana for supper. During the visit, I gifted him a copy of the Madinah Guide, which he graciously received, expressing his admiration and appreciation for the effort. After dinner, we departed, offered Salah at the Houghton Masjid, and retired for the evening.
Thursday, 14th November 2024
After a week of early mornings and long days, the exhaustion was starting to show—a lie-in was much needed. Our day began leisurely at 10 a.m. as we headed to an appointment at SANHA to meet the director, Molana Mohammad Saeed Nawlakhi.
S.A.N.H.A
The South African National Halal Authority (SANHA) is an international, non-profit organisation dedicated to upholding Islamic dietary laws by certifying Halal food and related products in South Africa, similar to the work of HMC in the UK. SANHA ensures that products meet stringent Halal standards, providing assurance to Muslim consumers and fostering confidence in Halal -certified goods.
We spent a productive hour with Molana, delving into the history of the organisations, their operations, and how they compare to the UK’s HMC system. We also touched on the role of the Saudi Food and Drug Authority (SFDA). The conversation was both enlightening and engaging. Molana shared that he was invited to Saudi Arabia a year ago for a forum on halal meat, where discussions centred around Saudi’s halal monitoring operations. He was particularly impressed with the SFDA system, which ensures that all food entering the Kingdom comes from reputable and certified companies, regularly monitored and audited by authorities. This represents a significant improvement over the previous lack of monitoring in Saudi Arabia. However, he noted that, despite the meat coming from verified sources, there remains the ongoing concern of differing halal standards, such as the permissibility of machine slaughtering according to Saudi guidelines. The meeting was both fruitful and insightful.
Between 12 and 2p.m.,I spent time visiting family, fulfilling the Sunnah of maintaining kinship bonds. As Ibn ’Umar said, “Whoever has taqwa of his Lord and maintains ties of kinship, his lifespan will be extended, his wealth increased, and his family’s love for him deepened.”
Gold Mine City Tour
Molana Ebrahim Pandor had recommended that we visit Gold Reef City and take a tour of the historic gold mines, so we decided to take the opportunity to explore. We arrived at the Gold Reef City theme park at approximately 2:00 p.m., where the entry ticket for the mine tour cost 200 R. The mine itself is situated within the park, offering a mix of history and entertainment.
At 2:00 p.m., our guide met us at the designated meeting point and began the tour by showing us the homes of the mine owner, manager, and workers. Although the houses are replicas, the possessions inside are original, offering a fascinating glimpse into life in the 1880s. It was intriguing to see the layout and furnishings of homes from that era and how people lived during the height of the gold rush.
As it was a weekday, our group consisted of just three people, making the tour feel more personalised. We were then escorted to a small theatre, where a short film detailed the story of South Africa’s Gold Rush in the 1880s. We learned that South African gold accounts for 35% of global production, and during its peak, the mines produced an astonishing 20 tonnes of gold daily.
Next, we visited the mine shaft, a key highlight of the tour. This particular mine was active until 1977 and originally extended over 3,000 metres deep. However, the lower levels are now flooded, and visitors are only taken down to a depth of 75 metres. Equipped with helmets and lights, we entered the lift, which, as the guide explained, is the same one used by miners. While its modern capacity is 30 people, it once carried significantly more miners at a time. Back then, it took an hour to descend to the lowest levels.
Inside the mine, we could hear water trickling down the walls, natural groundwater seeping through the rock. The guide showed us various sections of the mine and tools that were once used, including hydraulic drills, water pumps, and carts. He explained that extracting just 4 grams of gold required processing a tonne of rock. Before the installation of a railway system, workers had to push the heavy carts themselves. The harsh working conditions claimed the lives of over 80,000 miners over the course of a century.
After ascending back to the surface, we were taken to a goldsmith’s workshop, where a demonstration illustrated how gold was extracted and refined. The process began with crushing larger stones, followed by melting the material in a kiln and finally pouring it into moulds to create gold bars. The tour was both informative and eye-opening, offering a unique experience into South Africa’s mining heritage.
After the tour, we had lunch at Mochachos, a SANHA-certified restaurant located within the theme park. Mochachos is a local South African brand, and the food was delicious—definitely worth trying if you’re in South Africa. We departed the park at 3:30 p.m. and headed to Mia’s Farm, Waterval Islamic Institute, an hour’s drive away.
Waterval Institute (Mia’s Farm)
The Waterval Islamic Institute, more affectionately known as Mia’s Farm, holds a unique place in the hearts of South African Muslims. Established in 1934 on over 2,000 hectares of land, it became a beacon of Islamic education and da’wah during the challenging apartheid era. Despite the socio-political constraints of the time, the institute thrived as a sanctuary for religious and secular education, nurturing generations of South African Muslims who would later contribute significantly to the establishment of Islamic institutions across the country. Remarkably, it boasted the prestigious address of P.O. Box 1, Johannesburg.
Founded under the visionary leadership of Molana Muhammad Mia (a student of Molana Anwar Shah Kashmiri) and his family, Mia’s Farm offered a holistic approach to education. Its facilities included hostels, a dynamic schooling syllabus that embraced multiple languages, and a robust Tahfidh and Dhor programme. The institute became a stepping stone for those aspiring to further their Islamic studies at esteemed institutions. Beyond academics, it nurtured financial self-sufficiency with initiatives like a woodwork centre, glass factory, and dairy, while also serving as a halfway home for orphans and even Italian prisoners of war during WWII.
The legacy of Mia’s Farm extends far beyond its physical grounds. Its alumni include prominent scholars who have shaped the religious landscape of South Africa. The institute’s early contributions to publishing Islamic literature and fostering sporting and academic excellence are notable milestones.
We had the privilege of meeting Mufti Muadh Mia, the great-grandson of Molana Muhammad Mia, the esteemed founder of the Waterval Islamic Institute. Arriving at the farm at 4:40 p.m., we encountered a well-secured entrance, requiring a unique code provided by our host for access. Once inside, Mufti Muadh greeted us warmly and guided us to his office, where we discussed the institute’s ongoing activities and its impressive array of current projects.
During our conversation, Mufti Muadh shared that the institute now oversees approximately 3,000 Makaatib across Africa, providing invaluable Islamic education to communities. They have also developed a comprehensive syllabus for these Makaatib, covering everything from the basics of the Arabic alphabet to practical Islamic jurisprudence essential for everyday life. He showed us a copy of their newly designed 13-line Qurʾān in the Madani script, a continuation of the institute’s legacy. However, he noted that the Mushaf still requires a review due to some errors. The Waterval Institute remains renowned for its pioneering 13-line Qurʾān, a format still widely used by Muslims across the globe. The 13-line Mushaf was actually produced by the Taj Company in Hind. Waterval later printed it for South Africa.
Before leaving, we visited the mosque on the farm, a breathtaking structure that reflects the architectural beauty of Masjid Quba’ and Masjid Qiblatayn in Madinah. The minaret is an exact replica of that of Masjid Quba’, while the intricately hand-crafted brocade designs inside the mosque pay homage to the aesthetic of Masjid Qiblatayn. Shortly thereafter, we departed for Houghton Masjid to perform Asr Salah.
Houghton Masjid
We arrived at Houghton Masjid at 5:15 p.m. Houghton, a prestigious area in Johannesburg, is renowned for its affluent residents, including the current president of South Africa, who has a residence there. The masjid itself is stunning, with distinctive architecture featuring an open veranda and a retractable roof that adds to its charm.
One of the Imams, Qari Huzayfah Essack, is the son of the renowned Qari Ayoub Essack. We had the privilege of meeting him the night before during our visit for ʿIshāʾ Salah. As Maghrib approached, we prepared to visit one final masjid on our list: Masjid Siratul Jannah, affectionately referred to as the ‘Ferrero Rocher Masjid’.
Masjid Siratul Jannah
Masjid Siratul Jannah, fondly known as “The Ferrero Mosque” due to its golden-brown hues reminiscent of the luxurious chocolates, is a sight to behold. We arrived at the masjid shortly after 6:00 p.m. Its grandeur is immediately striking, with beautifully designed domes and intricate architecture. The chandeliers and doors evoke memories of those in al-Masjid an-Nabawi, adding to its majestic appeal.
Braai
After a brief visit, we promptly departed for Maghrib Salah at Daruloom Zakariyya, where we had been invited for a braai by my cousin, who currently resides in the teachers’ accommodation on the complex. The braai was exceptional, offering a unique twist on the BBQ experience we are accustomed to in the UK. After savouring the delicious meal and enjoying the warm hospitality, we took our leave and returned to the hotel for the night.
Friday 15th November 2024
Our final morning in South Africa was graced with a warm invitation from Qari Ziyaad Patel for breakfast. Renowned worldwide for his beautiful and melodious voice, Qari Ziyaad is also a co-founder of Al-Imdad, one of the largest charitable organisations in Africa, which operates in 75 countries, providing vital relief work. Despite his demanding schedule, he welcomed us with open arms and generous hospitality. We arrived at his home at 9 a.m., eager to share in his company.
Joining us for breakfast was Qari Hussain Kazi, who is married to my cousin’s sister and a close friend of Qari Ziyaad. The morning was both enjoyable and meaningful as we shared food, conversation, and reflections. I had the pleasure of presenting Qari Ziyaad with a copy of my book, which he graciously received. He expressed his admiration for the work and shared his desire to visit us in Madinah someday.
At 10:30 a.m., we bid farewell and headed to the airport, marking the end of an unforgettable journey. After returning the rental car, we smoothly completed the check-in and security processes. While waiting at the gate, we had the honour of meeting Shaykh Khalid Marghub, a former lecturer at the university in Madinah and currently a teacher at Kulliyatul Haram. Seizing the opportunity, we requested him to recite Musalsal bil Awwaliyah. He graciously complied, recited it, and granted us Ijazah. Shaykh Khalid also shared a memorable anecdote, mentioning how Shaykh Abdul Fattah Abu Ghuddah would often grant Ijazah in Hadith upon request at airports.
Although our flight was delayed, it eventually departed around 3:30 p.m. We arrived in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, at 9:30 p.m. local time. Following a brief layover, we boarded the final leg of our journey to Madinah at 11:30 p.m. local time, landing at 2:20a.m. This marked the end of an extraordinary and memorable journey.
