Alexandria- Egypt
Madinah to Egypt: Between Minarets and Monuments
Part one of an extensive travelogue of Egypt, covering Alexandria, Cairo, Luxor, and Hurghada.
In the name of Allah the most Beneficent the most Merciful
As my second year of studies began in the city of al-Madīnah al-Munawwarah, the anticipation of the mid-term break lingered in the air. After exploring the wonders of the North, East, and South of Saudi Arabia the previous year, our eagerness for adventure beckoned us to set our sights on the broader Middle East, with Egypt capturing our imagination. The perfect opportunity emerged with a week-long mid-term break, opening the door for us to embark on a journey and discover the treasures that Egypt had in store. With insights and a great deal of assistance from a dear friend and Cairo resident, Mawlānā Haroon, we put forth an exciting itinerary, fuelling our anticipation for the upcoming day of departure.
Residing in Saudi Arabia comes with the requirement for an entry-exit visa to leave the country. A necessary document obtained through employers or institutes. As students, procuring these visas meant navigating a challenging process in the past—typically a week of grovelling office visits and negotiating with the dean’s mood for approval. Fortunately, this year marked a positive change as the visa application process shifted online, sparing us the need for office visits. Gratefully, our visas were granted swiftly on a Monday, and with the newfound convenience, we promptly booked our flight to Cairo scheduled for the upcoming Friday. Alḥamdulillāh! As the week swiftly unfolded, our days were consumed with preparations for the impending journey. We meticulously planned the logistics, determined to make the most of our upcoming week in Egypt.
Friday 17th November 2023
Our flight, set for 6:10 pm, prompted us to head to the airport around 3pm. After a smooth check-in process, we eagerly awaited departure. Taking advice, we opted for attire other than thobes, mindful of minimizing attention, particularly during immigration and security procedures in Egypt.
Our timely departure from Madinah International Airport led us on a smooth 2-hour flight to Cairo, touching down at 7:15 pm local time. Stepping into the Cairo airport, we were directed to join the line at one of three bank branches to obtain a $25 visa ticket, preferably paid in dollars (though one branch accepted cards). With the visa in hand, we swiftly navigated immigration, completing the process within minutes.
Exiting the airport, we endured a wait in a lengthy queue to purchase a sim card, finally securing one for a reasonable price—just under £10—for ample internet access. We headed out to meet our driver, to begin a 3-hour drive to Alexandria, which was to be our stop for the next 2 nights. Under a cool 22°C, reminiscent of Madinah’s current weather, Cairo’s ambiance stirred memories of bustling streets and Tuk-Tuks, evoking shades of Mumbai. The city’s lively energy included motorbikes skilfully ferrying up to four passengers.
A helpful tip for visitors: the official exchange rate, visible at ATMs, falls short compared to the more advantageous rates in the parallel market. While the official XE rate for 1GBP was 38.5EGP, the parallel market generously offered 52EGP. Taking advantage of this insight, we made a brief stop to meet a friend, a resident of Cairo, who facilitated a cash exchange, thereafter continuing our journey to Alexandria.
Alexandria, the second-largest city in Egypt and the largest on the Mediterranean coast, extends about 40 km (25 miles) along the northern coast of Egypt. Founded in approximately 331 BC by Alexander the Great (d.323 BCE), the city rapidly evolved into a major hub of Hellenic civilization, eventually superseding Memphis as Egypt’s capital. Internationally recognized as the ‘Bride of the Mediterranean’, Alexandria is not only a popular tourist destination but also a crucial industrial centre. Its significance is underscored by the presence of natural gas and oil pipelines from Suez. This coastal metropolis holds a prominent place on the global stage, being the second-largest city in Egypt (after Cairo), the fourth-largest in the Arab world, the ninth-largest in Africa, and the ninth-largest urban area on the continent.
Arriving in Alexandria just past midnight, we sought much-needed rest, preparing for the adventures that awaited us in the coming day.
Saturday 18th November 2023
Our day started at 6 am with Fajr Ṣalāh, setting the tone for a packed schedule of palaces, museums, mausoleums and forts. Our hotel arrival the night before had left us in the dark about our surroundings, but the morning shed light on a description from our taxi driver: “the worst street in Alexandria”. The hygiene and cleanliness in the city were lacking, to put it mildly, and our own street resembled a landfill. Despite promising hotel reviews, none had warned us about the less-than-ideal neighbourhood.
Exploring Egypt comes with the perk of extremely cheap travel, and opting for Uber or Careem is a smart move. A half-hour taxi ride will set you back just under 150 EGP (£3.50). We stuck to this choice throughout the day, finding it both convenient and possibly more economical than local taxis.
Citadel of Qaitbaī
Our first stop of the day was a visit to the majestic Citadel of Qaitbaī, a fortress standing proudly along the Mediterranean Sea. Built by the Mamlūk Sultan al-Ashraf Abū an-Naṣr Qaitbaī (d. 1496) between 1477 and 1479 CE, this stronghold served as Alexandria’s shield against naval threats. Crafted from limestone, it sprawls over approximately 17550m², boasting an outer wall with defense towers, an inner wall with versatile rooms, and a main tower crowned with four half-circular defense towers. This historical gem, strategically positioned, garnered attention through the ages. Notably, it underwent renovations by Sultan Qansuh al-Ghūrī (d. 1516) and Muḥammad ʿAlī Pasha (d. 1849), who fortified it with weapons and strategically modified corridors to offer breathtaking views of the sea.
The name Qaitbaī resonated with familiarity, a nod to the lessons from our esteemed teacher, Dr. Ilyas Abdul Ghani, who taught us the history of Madinah. Qaitbaī became a household name due to his impactful contributions to the Ḥaramayn. Sultan Qaitbaī, the 18th Burjī Mamlūk Sultan of Egypt, left an indelible mark on history. His reign from 1468–1496 C.E stabilized the Mamlūk state and economy. Beyond military prowess, he strengthened northern borders with the Ottoman Empire, engaged in trade, and became a patron of art and architecture. His legacy shines through remarkable projects in Makkah, Madinah, Jerusalem, Damascus, Aleppo, Alexandria, and every quarter of Cairo.
Arriving just before the Citadel’s 9am opening, we strolled along the coast, waiting to enter. In line with most ticketed tourist spots in Alexandria, entry was typically 100 EGP, but being students came with perks—a discount, reducing our tickets to 50 EGP (£1.30). Our brief exploration of the Citadel revealed not only its historical significance but also housed within it the second oldest mosque in Alexandria. Inside, a distinctive Meḥrāb was seamlessly built into the wall, adding to the rich tapestry of the site.
Mosque Square
Wrapping up our visit just before 10 am, we took a 15-minute stroll to ‘Maḥallāt al-Masājid’ (Mosque Square), which held three significant Mosques within a small area. In 1934, King Fouad I (d. 1936) initiated the construction of the square spanning around 3,200 square meters. This square incorporated the mosque-shrines of Al-Būṣirī and Yāqūt al-ʿArsh, with the mosque of Abu’l- ʿAbbās al-Mursī positioned at its centre. The building underwent extensive renovations and reconstruction, a process spanning sixteen to eighteen years. Italian architect Mario Rossi played a pivotal role in designing and decorating the mosque.
The completed structure not only stood as a testament to architectural prowess but also served as a significant influence on the design of the much larger Sheikh Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi. This impressive project was ultimately finished in 2007 after over a decade of construction.
Masjid Abu’l- ʿAbbās al-Mursī
The main Mosque in the square was Masjid Abu’l- ʿAbbās al-Mursī, its name owing to one of the four master saints of Egypt Shahab ad-Dīn Abu’l- ʿAbbās Aḥmad ibn ʿUmar ibn Muḥammad al-Anṣārī al-Mursī (d. 1287). Originally from Murcia in Al-Andalus, he chose to live in Alexandria as Muslim Spain gradually fell under the domination of hostile Christian forces. Al-Mursi was a disciple of the famed Shaykh Abu’l-Ḥasan ash-Shāḍhilī (d. 1258) and had also married his daughter. Abu’l- ʿAbbās al-Mursī was also the Shaykh of the Egyptian Mālikī jurist, Muḥaddith and the third Murshid of the Shāḍhilī Sufi order, Ibn ʿAṭā Illāh al-Iskandarī (d. 1310).
The Masjid open shortly after we arrived. Majestic high ceilings and grand columns adorned the space, showcasing the beauty of Egyptian Architecture. The shrine of al-Mursī was also housed in a section within the Masjid.
Masjid Shaykh Yāqūt al-ʿArsh
In the square, we discovered another mosque, this one belonging to Shaykh Yāqūt al-ʿArsh al-Ḥabashī (d. 1301), a notable figure and successor to Shaykh Abu’l- ʿAbbās al-Mursī. Contrary to a common misconception that al-Mursī had only one successor, Ibn ʿAṭā Illāh al-Iskandarī, there were indeed two, and the second line leads to Shaykh Yāqūt al-ʿArsh al-Ḥabashī. Originating from Ethiopia, Yāqūt’s early life involved servitude until he was brought to Alexandria at the age of 10, where he caught the attention of al-Mursī. Al-Mursī not only freed him but also went on to marry him to his daughter.
The Masjid, designed in the same architectural style as Masjid Abu’l- ʿAbbās al-Mursī, stood before us. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit.
Masjid Imām al-Būṣirī
The last Masjid in the square held the shrine of Imām al-Būṣirī, the compiler of the famous Qaṣīdah al-Burdah. Imām al-Būṣirī was a Sanhaji Berber and was also a disciple of Abu’l- ʿAbbās al-Mursī and is one of the most famed poets in the Islamic world for his praise of the Prophet PBUH.
The Burdah, is a thirteenth-century ode of praise for the Prophet g. Its actual title is ‘Al-Kawākib ad-durriyyah fī Madḥ Khayr al-Bariyyah’, ‘The Celestial Lights in Praise of the Best of Creation’. Imām al-Būṣīrī’s heartfelt composition is a continuous praise of Muḥammad PBUH, with the poet claiming to have praised him ceaselessly. The narrative goes that the Prophet g appeared in a dream, wrapping the afflicted poet in a mantle or cloak. Miraculously, by morning, the poet discovered that Allah had cured him.
The current structure, dating primarily from 1863, underwent a significant transformation sponsored by Muḥammad Saʿīd Pasha (d. 1928), the son of Muḥammad ʿAlī Pasha. This reconstruction replaced a more modest and older building. Inspired by Ottoman architecture, the mosque features three large domes and a courtyard with an ablutions fountain. Additional remodelling occurred in 1889 under Khedive Tawfīq Pasha (d. 1892) and once more in the late 1990’s, contributing to the Masjid’s various architectural influences. The Masjid includes a section open to visitors where the grave of Imām al-Būṣirī is housed. We took a brief moment there, reciting his renowned work, the Burdah.
Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa
Our next stop in the itinerary we’re the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa, a historical archaeological site considered one of the seven wonders of the middle ages. The necropolis at Kom El Shoqafa comprises of Alexandrian tombs featuring a blend of Pharaonic, Hellenistic, and early Imperial Roman influences. The catacombs, created during the 2nd century AD, showcase a fusion of Roman, Greek, and Egyptian cultural elements. Initially intended for a single family, the catacombs expanded to house various individuals. Rediscovered in the 1900’s, the site includes the Hall of Caracalla, containing tombs for horses from 215 AD.
Like many attractions in Egypt, there was an entry fee, with a reduced rate for students. We paid 50EGP for admission. Upon entering, you encounter tombs and sculptures throughout the complex. The main catacombs, located towards the end, can be reached via a spiral staircase, allowing visitors to explore a network of tunnels.
Descending down stairs leads visitors to various levels of tunnels, each connecting to multiple rooms that once held hundreds of tombs. While exploring, archaeologists stumbled upon a Roman-style dining hall deep within the tomb. This room, probably used for special occasions by relatives, was found scattered with pottery fragments. Visitors deliberately broke containers, leaving terracotta shards behind and giving rise to the name ‘Kom El-Shoqafa’, meaning ‘mound of shards’.
The Roman Amphitheatre of Alexandria
As noon approached, and eager to explore more, we headed to the Roman Amphitheatre. A quick ride in a Careem brought us to the lively side of an Alexandrian road. The entry fee was a reasonable 50EGP for students. Tourists should always keep passports handy, as it’s required at tourist sites; when buying a ticket. And, if you’re a student, your student ID card. In Alexandria, there was a noticeable police presence, especially in tourist areas. Plain clothes officers, identifiable only by the sidearm they carried, would often inquire about our visit and request to see passports. It’s a minor detail, but worth noting.
Alexandria, is a significant hub of Roman culture and ancient Roman sites influenced by Alexander the Great. Notably, the Roman Amphitheatre in ‘Kom El Dekka’, meaning ‘The hill of rubble’ in Arabic, showcases marble seating, galleries for the plebs, and a forecourt with mosaic flooring. Originally used for gladiatorial games, it later transitioned to chariot races in Byzantine times. The discovery of this archaeological site in 1960 during construction work revealed its importance, with the amphitheatre considered a key historical achievement.
Wandering through the complex, we explored the remnants—a Roman theatre, cisterns, vibrant mosaics, and ancient baths. While it’s a captivating spot for Roman culture and architecture enthusiasts, it didn’t quite captivate us, prompting a swift departure.
Alexandria National Museum
A brief 10-minute drive led us to our next destination—the National Museum of Alexandria. Intriguingly, the Grand Palace, now housing the museum, was once the residence of the United States Consulate. This three-story Italian mansion is dedicated to three main collections: The Pharaonic period, the Hellenistic and Roman Period, and the Ancient Egyptian, Coptic, and Muslim World. With around 1,800 artifacts, the museum weaves together a narrative spanning the diverse stages of Egypt’s history.
Descending to the basement, we encountered the Pharaonic period exhibit, showcasing statues, mummy casings, and an array of artifacts. The 3rd floor stood out, featuring a fascinating collection of Islamic artifacts. Among them were coins from diverse Islamic dynasties, swords inscribed with Quranic verses, and a variety of relics from the Ayyubid period in Alexandria. Exploring the museum at a leisurely pace took us around 30 minutes. Approaching 2 pm, our anticipation shifted to the next stop—the Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Alexandria Library). Unfortunately, being a Saturday, it closed at 2 pm, leaving it reserved for a future visit.
The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a modern tribute to the Great Library of Alexandria, once the largest and most renowned library in the ancient world, boasting up to 100,000 scrolls. However, the current library pales in comparison due to insufficient funding, yet still holds its own historical significance.
Qasr as-Sanusi
Skipping breakfast due to our busy schedule, a meal was due, leading us to follow a taxi driver’s recommendation for a BBQ haven just outside Alexandria in the Baheira Governorate—Qasr as-Sanusi. This restaurant, situated in a grand complex, is not only renowned for its BBQ and fish but is also an ideal venue for events and functions. With separate sections for families and kids, complete with a central pool, the atmosphere was serene. The impressive architecture and location heightened our expectations, and we eagerly anticipated the culinary experience ahead.
We were pleasantly surprised by the exceptional food at Qasr as-Sanusi, making it the culinary highlight of our trip in Egypt. While Egypt isn’t renowned for its cuisine, this place was a true blessing. Despite the mixed reviews surrounding Egyptian food—with salads often lacking inspiration, vegetables lacking freshness, and main dishes being heavy and oily—Qasr as-Sanusi exceeded expectations. The notorious Molokhiyya dish, resembling green algae with a mucous-like consistency, was a historical turn-off for some, including the 11th-century caliph Al-Ḥākim who banned it. Despite these challenges, it’s possible to find satisfying and affordable meals in Egypt by adjusting taste expectations. Interestingly, the common notion of experiencing the best local food by dining in homes doesn’t entirely hold true in Egypt.
Located in the Baheira Governorate, Qasr as-Sanusi posed a transportation challenge as Ubers and Careem’s are not available in the area. After some effort, we secured a taxi to take us to our final destination—the Montazah Palace.
Montazah Palace
As the sun set, we arrived at the Montazah Palace grounds, greeted by a breathtaking scene of palm trees silhouetted against a magical watercolour sky. Before reaching the palace itself, visitors are greeted with Montazah Park, a once-exclusive royal garden that now spans 150 acres, inviting the public into its lush landscape and forest reserve. Nestled in the Montazah district of Alexandria, Egypt, the grounds feature a palace, museum, and extensive gardens. Perched on a low plateau east of central Alexandria, the palace boasts a commanding view of the Mediterranean Sea’s sandy shores. For a modest fee of 20 EGP, the ticket gives access to Montazah Gardens, Montazah Palace, Haramlik Palace, and a private coastline.
The story of Montazah Palace dates back to 1892 when Khedive Abbas II (d. 1944) built the Salamlek Palace, originally serving as a hunting lodge and residence. This marked the final residence of the ruling Muḥammad ʿAlī dynasty in Egypt and Sudan. In 1932, King Fuad I (d. 1936) added a touch of grandeur to the estate with the construction of the Haramlik Palace and royal gardens. This architectural marvel is a fusion of Ottoman and Florentine styles, complete with two towers, one of which reaches for the skies adorned with Italian Renaissance design. King Fouad’s vision for a larger palace materialized in 1932 with the creation of Haramlik While the palace buildings remain off-limits to visitors, the gardens and the inviting beach are open to the public. Notably, Salamlek Palace underwent a transformation under President Anwar as-Sadat (d. 1981), becoming an official presidential residence and later utilized by former President Hosni Mubarak (d. 2020).
Under the moonlit sky, with the Mediterranean Sea reflecting the serene glow, our day of exploration in Alexandria came to a close. We made our way back to the hotel, ready to rest for the night, preparing for the upcoming journey back to Cairo the next morning.