Hejaz to Najd- Historical Saudi
In the name of Allāh, the most Beneficent, the most Merciful
Alḥamdulillāh through the infinite grace and mercy of Allāh, six months into my stay in Saudi Arabia, my second term of studies had come to an end at the Islamic University of Madīnah, a reasonable time in-between semesters to travel and explore what Saudi Arabia has to offer. Having previously toured the country’s North and South, the main remaining area was the East, which included ʿUnayzah, Buraydah, Riyādh, Al-Hufūf, and the extreme Far East, Khubar, Dammām and Al-Qaṭīf. Tuesday, 28 February 2023, marked the last day of my exams and the beginning of an 11-day holiday. We delayed travelling until 1 March, due to other commitments. 1 March passed, and we were able to acquire a car on hire for our trip. As you will read, the East of Saudi Arabia has much more historical significance than the North and South, thus offering more museums, historical houses and ancient villages.
Day 1- Thursday, 2 March 2023
Al-Rabadha, Al-Ras, Buraydah
Al-Rabadha
After an early morning start for Fajr, followed by some breakfast and last-minute packing, we departed from Madīnah around 8 am. Our first stop on our way to Buraydah (our night stop) was Al-Rabadha. Al-Rabadha is a settlement in Saudi Arabia located some 200 km northeast of Madīnah on the pilgrim route from Kūfah to Makkah, known as Darb Zubaydah. It is located entirely off-road with no proper access, and any paved trail stops an hour before reaching Al-Rabadha. Google Maps does not provide a route to the location; thus, to get close to the area, we had to drop a pin on Google Maps to the nearest road, follow any tyre tracks, and use Google Maps satellite view to find a route.
2hrs 30mins into the journey; we had reached the point where we would have to go off-road. A 4×4 is a must for anyone planning on travelling to Al-Rabadha. We, however, did not have a 4×4 and struggled with the route. We tried following any tire tracks we could see. However, we were driving blind with little assistance from the satellite view from the maps. The route was challenging, to say the least; driving slow meant getting stuck in the sand and driving fast gave little time to avoid any ditches. Despite our efforts, we did get stuck in the sand, an experience! We dug the sand out around the wheel with our hands, placed the car mats under the tyres and eventually freed the car. The short time we experienced in the desert, with the unrelenting sand and wind with the scorching sun, gave us a meagre insight into what travelling in a desert would be like thousands of years ago.
On more than one occasion, we thought of turning back and returning another time with a more suitable car, but we continued having made it so far and eventually reached the ruins of Al-Rabadha. Al-Rabadha is more famously known as the city of Abū Dhar al-Ghifārī (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu), a greatly revered companion of the Prophet ﷺ who spent his last years there and passed away in the same area. The archaeological excavations directed by King Saud University have shown that Al-Rabadha yields essential information for the early phases of Islamic culture. The excavations at Al-Rabadha give a good insight into urban housing in the Early Islamic Period. The site was dominated by a palace structure consisting of 13 rooms with doors opening into a central courtyard. The ruins have recently been fenced off, and there is no access to the grave or Masjid of Abū Dhar al-Ghifārī (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu). However, you can see them. One may wonder why a companion of the Prophet ﷺ would live in such a desolate place.
Jundub ibn Junādah, more commonly known as Abū Dhar al-Ghifārī, was a man from the Banū Ghifār tribe who were distant relatives of Quraish. He was detached from the world from an early age and was not much sociable, even before Islām. He is known to have been a monotheist who rejected idol worshipping even before the advent of Islām and was one of the earliest people to accept Islām. He remained in the desert until the Prophet’s ﷺ Hijrah to Madīnah, and soon after the battle of Khandaq migrated himself. After the demise of the Prophet ﷺ, he distanced himself due to his sorrow of the Prophet’s ﷺ departure, thus remaining in the Syrian desert during the Caliphate of Abū Bakr and Umar (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhuma). During the Caliphate of ʿUthmān (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu), he stayed in Damascus; however, once he saw the people’s attachment to worldly desires, he began admonishing the people. Thus ʿUthmān (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu) called him to Madīnah. In Madīnah, he was also critical of the people’s pursuit of material goods and pleasures, and they were critical in turn of his reviling them. ʿUthmān (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu), therefore, ordered that he should go to Al-Rabadha. There he stayed far away from people, renouncing their preoccupation with worldly goods and holding on to the legacy of the Prophet ﷺ and his companions in seeking the everlasting abode of the Hereafter in preference to this transitory world.
We find a lengthy report by Ibn Isḥāq in his Maghāzī; he states: the Messenger of Allāh ﷺ said, “May Allāh have mercy on Abū Dhar, he walks alone, will die alone, and will be resurrected alone”. Thus, we find that at the end of his life, whilst residing in Al-Rabadha with his wife and slave girl, he passed away far from the people. He advised his wife before his demise, “when I pass away, bathe me and shroud me, then carry me to the road, and whoever passes by, say to them “This is Abū Dhar” so that they pray my Janāzah Ṣalāh”. When he passed away, his advice was carried out; Ibn Masʿūd (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu) happened to be passing by on his way from Kūfah, they informed him of the passing of Abū Dhar (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu). He proclaimed Shahadah and began to cry, exclaiming, “The Prophet ﷺ was truthful, Abū Dhar lived alone and died alone, and he will be resurrected alone.”
A few meters away is a large reservoir known as Darb Zubaydah. Which was the name given to the road that connected Makkah to the Iraqi cities of Kūfah and Baghdād during the Abbāsid period. Named after Zubaydah bint Jaʿfar, wife of the ʿAbbāsid Caliph Hārūn Al-Rashīd, she supported charitable works on numerous stations along the Ḥajj route.
Darb Zubaydah was the most crucial Ḥajj route during the Abbasid Caliphate, between 750 to 850 CE, a period renowned as a golden age of Muslim civilisation. At its peak of prosperity, markers and milestones were installed along the route with wells, pools, dams, palaces, houses, and partially paved routes to facilitate the passage of pilgrims. As mentioned by UNESCO, twenty-seven significant stations and 27 substations have been identified. The ʿAbbāsid Caliphate — which reigned over a vast empire stretching from North Africa to the western borders of China from the late 8th to early 10th centuries — acted as the decisive trigger of the development and full exploitation of the route’s potential. There are reports that there was a fortress, two mosques and two reservoirs, one circular and the other square. The site was abandoned after the invasion of the Qarmatians, who attacked the place in 931 CE, and its facilities fell into disuse. Unable to get close to the Masjid or grave, we stood at the fence and narrated a few Aḥādīth on the authority of Abū Dhar (Raḍiyallāhuʿanhu) from the Prophet ﷺ. We left shortly after.
The route was ever more treacherous, especially in a sedan not built to withstand such a harsh landscape. I was initially reluctant to mention what had occurred on our way back; however, mentioning it would be a forewarning to anyone planning on going to Al-Rabadha without a 4×4.
The return route initially seemed to be better than the one we had taken previously; however, we would soon realise that the route had sand and ditches which could not be avoided. While trying to avoid getting stuck in the sand by driving faster, the car’s front end slammed into a ditch and sent the front bumper flying over the car roof. We got out of the car to assess the damage. The entire front end was 20 metres behind the car, with headlights and other pieces to the left and right. We picked up the pieces, put them into the boot, and fit the car’s front end with duct tape. We inquired about a garage at the nearest petrol station, but nothing was close for another 100km. The hit the car had taken had resulted in some fault with the AC. Thus, the next 2 hours went painstakingly slow. Finally, we arrived in Al-Rass, a small town an hour’s drive from Buraydah. We took the car to a workshop and were informed of the bad news. The entire front bumper had to be replaced, as well as the radiator mount. The AC pipe had burst due to the radiator moving back and slicing the pipe. The issue we faced was that it was a Thursday evening, and all the workshops had begun closing for the weekend. Thus no one was ready to take on new work. Eventually, after going around to multiple workshops, we found a garage willing to do the job.
The people in Al-Rass were accommodating; we had met a brother Ilyas from India, who helped us immensely, calling around to the garages to try and get someone to do the work; the workshop we eventually ended up at was owned by a Gujarati brother from Aḥmedabad who took care of us. The bumper could not be fixed and required a new one, which could not be done in one day; the only thing they could repair was the AC. We took our chances, had the AC fixed and hoped to find a garage in Buraydah for the bumper.
Al-Rass- Al-Shinānah Historical Tower
Al-Rass, located in Al-Qasīm Province, lies southwest of Buraydah, the province’s capital and north of Riyāḍ. It is noted to be the third largest city in Al-Qasīm province by population. Before leaving for Buraydah, we stopped at Al-Shinānah Historical Tower, considered one of the most outstanding archaeological landmarks in the Qasīm region. Built entirely of Mud, the tower stands 30 metres high and was built almost 300 years ago in 1111 Hijrī as a lookout for neighbouring tribes and communication. The evening fast approached, and one hour remained for our Journey to Buraydah, where we would spend the night and the following day. We reached Buraydah just before 10 pm, had some dinner and took rest for the night.
Day 2- Friday 3 March 2023
Buraydah and ʿUnayzah
Buraydah Water Tower
Our priority on Friday morning was to get the car repaired; however, due to it being the weekend, garages and workshops were closed. That left us an entire day to visit the museums and historical sites in ʿUnayzah and Buraydah. We had a late start to the day, prayed Jumuʿah and went to explore the city. Our first stop was The Buraydah Water Tower, a popular landmark in the city, open for visitors during the summer. The water tower houses an open floor at the top, allowing visitors to enjoy panoramic views of Buraydah.
Buraydah Museum
Our next stop was ‘The Buraydah Museum’, a great location to understand the region’s heritage. The museum contains many collectables and artefacts from years gone that symbolise the history of leadership in this Saudi Arabian region. There is also a special pavilion for King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Āl Saʿūd – the founder of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia – which includes his car, a popular heritage hall, and Aramco Hall. The most spectacular exhibit within the entire showing is the car used by KingʿAbdul-ʿAzīz on his visit to the city. The enormous white Cadillac fills the entrance area.
Al-ʿUqilāt Museum
We continued to our next stop, ‘The Al-ʿUqilāt Museum’, a historical site which features over ten thousand rare documents related to the first people who lived in the region – as well as the tools and commercial maps used to navigate the surrounding area and beyond. The museum is a great way to ponder the rich history of Saudi Arabia and consider where traditional customs and way of life originated today, as well as how locals interacted with and went on to build relationships with other countries in the region. The museum represents and reflects thousands of years of historical artefacts and data.
ʿUnayzah- Al-Ḥamdān Heritage House
Our following location was in ʿUnayzah, a 20-minute drive from Buraydah. Known for its Scholars and rich Islamic heritage, ʿUnayzah was an important stopping point for Muslim pilgrims from ʿIrāq and Irān on their way to Makkah. Many scientists and historians believe that ʿUnayzah was inhabited hundreds of years before the spread of Islām, citing its reference in numerous poems from some of the most important poets of pre-Islamic Arabia, such as Imru’ al-Qais. Our first stop in ʿUnayzah was Al-Ḥamdān Heritage House, located amid an old farm in Wādī Al Jenah. The House Museum is considered one of the distinguished museums in the Al-Qasīm region and is licensed as a private museum. The newly constructed old-style House is a model of old country houses in the villages of Al-Qasīm; it consists of several sections, including a Majlis, dome, Flaleh cafe, and the bride’s room.
Shaykh Ibn ʿUthaymīn Institute
As Asr Ṣalāh approached, we stopped for Ṣalāh in the Masjid next to ‘The Shaykh Ibn ʿUthaymīn Institute’. The charitable foundation was established in honour of Shaykh Muḥammad bin Sāleḥ Al-ʿUthaymīn after his demise, by his five sons. Its purpose is to continue the Shaykh’s charitable work and promote his teachings. The foundation has received the honorary presidency of Prince ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz bin Fahd bin ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz. It is an institute that the Shaykh himself had been planning to establish to manage his growing work. The foundation holds the Shaykh’s personal library, a research centre, and a bookshop where visitors can buy his books. We requested a tour. However, it needed prior booking. Thus, we were not able to visit his library.
Al-Bassām Heritage House
After ʿAṣr Ṣalāh, we made our way to Al-Bassām Heritage House—a 19th Century Najdī Style house representing an era of architectural evolution in the province of ʿUnayzah. The owner of the House was a wealthy businessman, hailing from ʿUnayzah, known as ʿAbdur-Raḥmān Muḥammad Al-Bassām. The House consists of many rooms, including Majālis for formal and informal guests, a kitchen room, many bedrooms, a bride’s room, and more. The House has recently been brought by the authorities and turned into a museum to showcase the Najdī style of housing and culture. We were invited to some traditional Arabic Ghahwa with crystalised pressed dates. Before fridges and freezers, Arabs traditionally would crystalise dates through specific pressing methods to preserve them for many years.
The picture below shows this method. The dates are placed in a tall structure and then pressed by placing Rocks on top of them; at the bottom of the structure, a pipe allows for the crystalised juice to trickle out.
Al-Musawkaf Market
After enjoying the Ghahwa with the tour guides, we attended the Al-Musawkaf Market next to the House. Qasīm’s Al-Musawkaf Market is one of the prominent landmarks in the region and is characterised by its superb architectural style. Covering an area of 5,000 square meters, it consists of 51 shops, a museum, traditional courtyards and seating areas, handicrafts workshops and weekly/monthly heritage shows. The market is located in the centre of ʿUnayzah near the site of the old Musawkaf market, which was removed in 1964 CE and was one of the most important markets at the time.
Jamiʿ Masjid Ibn ʿUthaymīn- ʿUnayzah
As Maghrib Ṣalāh approached, we made our way to Jami Masjid Ibn ʿUthaymīn. A Masjid named in honour of the Shaykh due to his frequent attendance at the Masjid. Next to the Masjid, there is an old mud pillar from the original Masjid, before the new Masjid was constructed. It is 130 years old, built entirely of mud and still stands strong today. The new Masjid was erected at the behest of Shaykh Ibn ʿUthaymīn when King Khālid visited the Shaykh in ʿUnayzah in 1981 CE.
Before our return to Buraydah, we visited the car workshop area to see if anyone was open and willing to start the car repair. We found a garage willing to make a start, but the car wouldn’t be ready until the following evening. Having no other choice, we took him up on his offer and returned to Buraydah for the night and took rest.
Day 3- Saturday, 4 March 2023
Riyāḍ
Another late start to the day due to the car repair. Our planned schedule was out the window, and we would have to take a day at a time. We left for the garage after ʿAṣr, picked up the parts and waited another 3 hours for the fitting and repair work. Finally, it was complete, and we left for Riyāḍ after ʿĪshāʾ. Riyāḍ was a 3hr 20min drive from Buraydah. We reached Riyāḍ around noon, had dinner and took rest for the long day ahead of us.
Day 4- Sunday, 5 March 2023
Riyāḍ and Dirʿiyyah
Riyāḍ
Riyāḍ, formerly known as Ḥajr al-Yamāmah, is the capital and largest city of Saudi Arabia. It is also Riyāḍ Province’s capital and the Riyāḍ Governorate’s centre. It is the largest city on the Arabian Peninsula and is situated in the centre of the Al-Nafūd desert, on the eastern part of the Najd plateau. The city sits at an average of 600 meters above sea level and receives around 5 million tourists yearly, making it the forty-ninth most visited city in the world and the 6th in the Middle East. Riyāḍ is the political and administrative centre of Saudi Arabia. The Consultative Assembly (also known as the Shūra council), the Council of Ministers, the King and the Supreme Judicial Council are all in the city. Riyāḍ also holds tremendous economic significance, as it hosts the headquarters of many banks and major companies. During the Pre-Islamic era, the city at the site of modern Riyāḍ was called Hajr and was reportedly founded by the tribe of Banū Ḥanīfa. Hajr served as the capital of the province of Al-Yamāmah, whose governors were responsible for most of central and eastern Arabia during the Umayyad and ʿAbbāsid eras.
Masmak Fort
An early start to the day, we left our hotel just after 7:30 am and made our way to our first stop, Masmak Fort. The Masmak Fort, or Masmak Palace, is a clay and mudbrick fort in Dirʿiyyah, Riyāḍ, located near the Justice Palace—Built-in 1865 for prince ʿAbdurraḥmān ibn Sulaimān Al-Dabān under the Emirate of Jabal Shammar. The fortress played an integral role in the Unification of Saudi Arabia, with the Battle of Riyāḍ, one of the most critical conflicts of Saudi unification, taking place in the fort. In January 1902, ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Āl Saʿūd, living in exile in Kuwait, returned to Riyāḍ and led an ambush against the Masmak fortress, regaining it from the House of Rashīd in the Battle of Riyāḍ. The event restored Saudi control over Riyāḍ and is considered one of the most important in completing the unification of Saudi Arabia. It was used as a munitions warehouse from 1902 to 1938 CE by King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz before he moved his court to the newly built Murabbaʿ Palace. Since 1995 CE, the fortress has been converted into a museum showcasing one of the most important landmarks of Saudi heritage.
Our early morning start meant that we were the first visitors. Thus, it was easy and quick to navigate. The fort displays live photos of the story of the kingdom’s unification, including the battle of regaining Riyāḍ, represented in Ibn Jiluwī’s spear tip which remains embedded on the gate of Al-Masmak Fortress. Ibn Jiluwī was from amongst the army of King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz. In the 1902 CE battle when he threw his spear, meaning to aim at Ajlan bin Rashid, he missed his aim, and the tip of the spear settled in the gate, making a deep crack that is a witness to the heroic story of one of the main King’s servants. The spear tip in the main door is still visible to this day.
You may have to come to realise, or you will as you read on, that this trip was very historically orientated. The Eastern side of Saudi Arabia, due to its history with the foundation of Saudi and pre-Islamic civilisations in this area, means that there are many museums and historic houses to explore. Every city we visited offered some history, whether connected to the foundation of the Kingdom, pre-Islamic or post-Islamic.
Murabbaʿ Palace- King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Memorial Hall
Within central Riyāḍ, a few historical palaces and forts are worth visiting, of which is Murabbaʿ Palace, our next stop. Murabbaʿ Palace, located in the centre of Riyāḍ, is a window into the rich history of Riyāḍ and a scene from its ancient memory. The palace overflows with memories of the place and the historical events it witnessed. The palace was built by King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz and was the first significant expansion out of the original Riyāḍ city walls. The palace was intended to be a family residence and court for the King. With the construction of the palace, three novel technologies were introduced to Saudi society: the use of automobiles as a means of transportation, electricity by means of generators and water closets with drainage systems.
The King left his former court in Masmak fort when the construction was finished and used the palace as his residence and court from 1938 CE until his death in 1953 CE. During the reign of King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz, Murabbaʿ Palace witnessed many official visits and signs of various agreements. A lift was installed in the Murabbaʿ Palace in the late 1940s when the King had difficulty climbing the stairs due to advanced arthritis. It was the first lift in Saudi Arabia. In 1999 the Saudi commission for tourism and antiquities initiated a development project to renovate the palace. It was converted into a museum and became open to public visits. The palace has now become a ‘living museum’ after renovation. We walked around the two-story palace and saw many memorabilia of the King and the officials who resided there, including their workstations, equipment, residence and seating areas. Adjacent to the palace is ‘The King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Memorial Hall’, which holds his memorabilia, including his clothes, personal Mushafs, and cars. Of his cars was a 1946 Rolls Royce gifted to the King by the then British Prime Minister, Winston Churchill. The palace has welcomed many foreign dignitaries, including the General Secretary of the Chinese Communist Party, Xi Jinping, who visited Saudi Arabia in January 2016. More recently, it hosted former US President Donald Trump and his wife for dinner, which King Salmān bin ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Āl Saʿūd organised on 20 May 2017.
Sulaimān Al-Rājihī Grand Mosque
Our palace tour ended around 10:15 pm, and we made our way to Riyāḍ’s largest Mosque, the monumental Al Rājihī Grand Mosque, also known as Sulaimān Al-Rājihī Mosque. The Mosque is one of Riyāḍ’s most important Islamic institutions, with an 18,000-person capacity in the men’s hall, a 2,500-person capacity in the women’s area, and a spot for community events. It houses two libraries and an educational centre, and Friday prayers are translated into seven languages and shown on digital screens for people with hearing loss. Named after Shaykh Sulaimān bin ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Rājihī, a Saudi businessman ranked as one of the wealthiest men in the world. The Masjid was established as one of his initiatives and was opened in 2004 by King Salmān when he was Emīr of Riyāḍ. We arrived at the Masjid an hour or so before Ẓūhr Ṣalāh and found it to have an electric atmosphere; the entire first row was complete, with worshippers engaging themselves in reciting the Qur’ān or in Ṣalāh, as you walk down the Masjid Hall every pillar has a person either praying Ṣalāh behind it or someone reciting Qur’ān, the back of the Masjid is buzzing with Qur’ān Halqaat where young and old alike are engaged in learning the Qur’ān. The Masjid was genuinely electric and had an atmosphere that must be experienced.
The Kingdom Centre- Sky Walk
Our fourth stop would be The Kingdom Centre, formally known as Kingdom Tower. This 99-story skyscraper in Riyāḍ when completed in 2002 was the tallest tower in Saudi Arabia. It has since been surpassed and, as of 2021, it is the fifth-tallest skyscraper in the country. It is the world’s third-tallest building, with a hole after the Shanghai World Financial Centre and the 85 Sky Tower in Taiwan. The tower was developed by Prince Al-Walīd bin Ṭalāl and designed by the team of Ellerbe Becket and Omrania, who were selected through an international design competition. It is situated on a 100,000–square-metre site and houses the 57,000-square-meter Al-Mamlaka shopping mall, offices, the Four Seasons Hotel Riyāḍ, and luxury apartments. There is a 65m sky bridge atop the skyscraper. The upper third of the tower features an inverted parabolic arch topped by a public sky bridge. The sky bridge is a 300-ton steel structure, forming an enclosed corridor with windows on both sides. After paying a 69 Riyal entry fee, we took two elevators to reach the sky bridge. From a height of 300 meters, we were treated to a stunning panoramic view of the city through the glass panels.
After spending a short while on the bridge, we made our way down to the 77th floor, which houses the highest Mosque in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, King ʿAbdullāh Mosque. At 1803 meters above sea level, the Mosque is designed in the form of a dome, covering an area of 110 square meters, and can accommodate 85 worshippers. It was opened by King ʿAbdullāh on 13 October 2003 when he was crown prince and was thereafter included in the Guinness book of world records. We prayed our Ẓuhr Ṣalāh at the Masjid and then made our way down and on our way for some lunch.
Najd Village
Throughout our trip, set times for food and sleep were nowhere to be found, the day would go by ticking off each place from the itinerary, and if we were hungry, we would go for food. Najd Village was a recommended place and thus was planned into the itinerary for the day. Hence it was a treat to get some traditional Arab food for lunch. Najd Village is a restaurant in Riyāḍ that focuses on authentic Arab cuisine while presenting the old Najd lifestyle in the building’s architecture. The Arab cuisine in this environment combines the uniqueness of the heritage and its architecture and antiques with the warmth of hospitality and quality of service. We ordered a traditional Meat Kabsah, Hashi Steam and Meat Maqloba. The food is presented in the outdoor seating, which spans two floors and gives one a true feeling of Arab cuisine and lifestyle.
King ʿAbdullāh Financial District- KAFD Mosque
Recently, Riyāḍ’s towering skyscrapers have begun to take shape and resemble what we see in major metropolises around the world. The central business district which houses these skyscrapers is the King ʿAbdullāh Financial District, a mixed-use financial district located near King Fahad Road in the Al-ʿAqīq area of Riyāḍ. The district is the largest LEED-certified financial centre in the world (a green building certification program used worldwide). KAFD was inspired by King ʿAbdullāh’s vision to create a new financial district that would take the economy of Riyāḍ to new heights. This city within city redefines Riyāḍ’s skyline with outstanding buildings inspired by the native landscape.
Although it was a working day of the week, the area seemed lifeless. The shops were empty, and the district seemed void of life, which is rare for someone from the UK, having seen the hustle and bustle of London districts. Every now and then, we would see a person walking past in a suit and tie or an Arab in their traditional Thobe and Shemagh. The district also holds the KAFD Mosque, an architectural centrepiece of the district. The 6,103-square-meter structure sits on a large urban plaza that functions as a public space and, when needed, an outdoor prayer area. The column-free space can accommodate 1,500 prayer spaces over two levels — a large central hall and a mezzanine. Unlike a traditionally styled mosque, the general concept of the Grand Mosque is inspired by the desert rose, a naturally-occurring crystalline structure commonly found in the deserts of Saudi Arabia. The entire Mosque is columnless, and the structural loads are transferred through the skin of the building. In 2019 the Grand Mosque was named one of the Top 10 contemporary mosques that challenge traditional Islamic architecture.
Al-Ṭuraif- Dirʿiyyah
As the evening drew closer, we hurried to our next destination, Al-Ṭuraif, a 30-minute drive from Riyāḍ, in the town of Dirʿiyyah, located on the northwestern outskirts of Riyāḍ. Dirʿiyyah was the original home of the Saudi royal family and served as the capital of the Emirate of Dirʿiyyah under the first Saudi dynasty from 1727 to 1818 CE. Today, the town is the seat of the Dirʿiyyah Governorate, which also includes the villages of ʿUyayna, Jubayla, and Al-ʿAmmāriyyah, among others, and is part of Riyāḍ Province. The ruins of the old city of Dirʿiyyah lay on either side of the narrow valley known as Wadi Ḥanīfa, which continues southwards through Riyāḍ and beyond.
Wadi Ḥanīfa may be familiar to those keen on Islamic history, particularly the Sariyyah of Muḥammad bin Maslamah. The Expedition (Sariyyah) of Muḥammad bin Maslamah occurred in 627 CE (6 Hijrī). Prophet Muḥammad ﷺ sent a team of thirty companions under Muḥammad bin Maslamah on a mission to confront Banū Bakr. The companions led a surprise attack on the enemy, and they all fled. In this mission, one man, the chief of the Banū Ḥanīfa, was captured. His name was Thumāmah bin Uthāl. Thumāmah bin Uthāl begged for mercy and admitted to spilling Muslim blood. With the chief of Banū Ḥanīfa (a branch of Banū Bakr) asking for leniency and forgiveness for killing Muslims, the Prophet ﷺ pardoned him. He accepted Islām and proclaims his faith to the people of Makkah when he goes for ʿUmrah, warning the people that no grain will come to Makkah from Yamāmah unless Muḥammad ﷺ orders it. [Bukhārī 4372]
Al-Ṭuraif is the most important district of Dirʿiyyah and one of the five Saudi sites included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is regarded as one of the important political and historical sites in Saudi Arabia, as it represents the capital of the Saudi dynasty. Al-Ṭuraif was the original home of the Saudi royal family and the country’s first capital from 1727 CE till the Ottoman’s takeover in 1818 CE. Al-Ṭuraif district includes Salwa Palace, from which the affairs of the first Saudi state were managed. Scholars and ambassadors of neighbouring regions also visited it.
Al-Bujairī district, Muḥammad ibn ʿAbdul Wahhāb Mosque – Dirʿiyyah
On the opposite side of Al-Ṭuraif is Diriyah’s Al-Bujairī district, an area developed for tourism, which includes different rides for children, food stalls, a market, painting, yard gatherings, and various workshops teaching tons of crafts, including pottery and calligraphy. The park also offers a great view of the Al-Ṭuraif district, especially at night when it illuminates the whole area with beautiful lights. Al-Bujairī Heritage Park blends ancient and modern architecture and aligns with Saudi’s 2030 vision for tourism. The district also offers the newly opened Bujairī Terrace, where visitors can enjoy a selection of world-class local and international restaurants and cafes.
Although we knew we had to book before entering, we were unaware of the prices. If one visits in the morning until 4 pm, it is free; however, after 4 pm, it is 100 Riyals per person. This price includes a balance of 100 Riyals to spend in the cafes or restaurants within the Al-Bujairī district. Although, it is important to note that one drink will cost you 70 Riyals! We entered the area before Maghrib and were treated to a spectacular sunset with a silhouette of the old mud palace. We prayed Maghrib Ṣalāh at the Muḥammad ibn Abdul Wahhāb Mosque in the Al-Bujairī district. The Mosque dates back to the time of the first Saudi state. It was initially built using mud with stone foundations and was rebuilt using concrete at the expense of the late King Fahad bin ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Āl Saud in 1424 Hijri.
After Maghrib, we returned to the viewing area, where you can view the entire district lit up with lights. The mud-built buildings and palace are indeed a marvel to see after sunset. The district was busy, mainly with Saudis, who had come to enjoy the evening. We attended one of the many stalls and cafes which lined the streets, cleared the 100 Riyal balance and made our way out for our journey to Al-Hufūf, where we would be staying for the night.
Our initial plan was to remain in Riyāḍ for one more night and leave for Al-Hufūf the following morning after getting some rest. However, due to the car issues, we had to improvise and make our way to Al-Hufūf at night to get back on track. We left Dirʿiyyah around 8 pm and arrived in Al-Hufūf around noon. We booked a hotel on the way to Al-Hufūf and rested before a long day ahead.
Day 5- Monday 6 March 2023
Al-Hufūf and Khubar
Al-Hufūf
Al-Hufūf is a major urban city in the Al-Aḥsāʾ Oasis in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia, with a population of 858,395 (as of 2021). It is also known for being one of the largest date producers in the world and for its old souks and palaces. Al-Hufūf remained the headquarters of the Ottoman administration from 1871 CE when the Ottoman Empire seized eastern Arabia, until the Saudi State recaptured it in 1913 CE. Al Hufūf has a hot desert climate with long, sweltering summers and mild, short winters. Thus, it was much warmer than we had experienced in Riyāḍ and other cities.
Ibrāhīm Palace
Al-Hufūf has a rich architectural history that goes back to the Ottoman and the Saudi states; thus, our first stop was the main architectural heritage from the Ottoman period, Ibrāhīm Palace. Qaṣr Ibrāhīm, a historical castle and fort located in the Alqoat neighbourhood, was a Turkish military barrack until 13 April 1913 CE, when the palace was taken and seized by King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Āl Saud. The palace was constructed in 1556 CE by ʿAlī Ibn Aḥmad Ibn Lawand Al-Buraykī, the Ottoman governor of the time. During the next century, the palace was enlarged into a castle, prison and Turkish bath. In 1801 CE the castle was renovated by the Saudi governor Ibrāhīm Ibn ʿUfaysān (Several historians believe that the castle was named after him). The palace covers an area of 16500 square meters. It is characterised by an architectural style that blends Islamic and military features with the traditional architectural styles of the Al-Aḥsāʾ region. Those styles are exhibited in the arcs, domes and ornamental designs. In 2018, Al-Aḥsāʾ became the fifth Saudi site to be registered with UNESCO. Thus, Qaṣr Ibrāhīm Mosque was included as one of the 12 sites in the Cultural Landscape of Al-Aḥsāʾ. The palace is undergoing extensive renovations, so we could not explore from the inside. However, the gate was open, and we could see the fort’s layout and the Masjid from afar.
Soūq Al-Qaisariya
Al-Hufūf has always had a rich trading legacy. Thus, the magnetic Soūq Al-Qaisariya boasts wares that come with a storied past. Widely believed to have been built in 1822 CE, Al Aḥsāʾ locals claim the Soūq is referenced in historical documents that date as far back as 600 years. A fire almost destroyed the Soūq in 2001, but thanks to the attention of the then King Fahad, the important heritage site was renovated and continues to thrive today. The Soūq holds more than 400 stalls spread across a network of maze-like rows and crosswalks with numbered aisles to avoid getting too lost. In 2018 the Soūq was granted a UNESCO heritage status to maintain its preservation. We arrived at the Soūq around 10:30 am, and spent some time speaking to the locals asking about its history. Having travelled extensively around the country, you soon realise how the accents in every city change. Hufuf was no different, as the locals adopted a soft and sweet tone when conversing. We walked around the Soūq, through the tight alley ways, passing by a mixture of smells, sometimes Spices and often Bukhoor. The Soūq has managed to preserve the essence of what a marketplace may have felt like hundreds of years ago, far from what we experience in our markets today. Even after the renovation of the market, the wooden roof and part mud buildings have still been preserved in places, something which captures the modern and historical aspect of the Soūq.
Khuzām Palace
Keeping in touch with the city’s historic architecture, our next stop represented the architecture of the Saudi State—Khuzām Palace, located at the southwestern entrance to Hufūf. The palace is mentioned to have been built in 1805 CE by King Saʿūd bin ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz and was created to offer military protection for Bedouin traders passing by Al-Aḥsāʾ to buy supplies and trade. The palace qualifies to be one of the most important tourist sites in Al-Hufūf due to its decorative and construction style. The palace has six towers in total, three on the north side and three more on the south side, made up of two stories; visitors can climb up to the top of the towers and view the city through the arrow slits used for observing. It seemed as though renovation had only been completed recently, and a fresh coat of paint had been applied to the external walls of the palace to hide graffiti. The General Authority for Tourism and National Heritage in Al-Aḥsāʾ protects historical sites in the governorate with surveillance cameras to guard against graffiti attacks on its walls. People convicted of defacing or damaging archaeological or heritage sites face jail terms of up to a year and a fine of up to 100,000 Riyals.
Bayt al-Bayʿah/ Mullā
Initially, we planned to take the eastern route to Masjid Juwātha; however, near Khuzām Palace, we came across an old building assigned a heritage board. Thus, we stopped to explore. Bayt al-Bayʿah (The House of Allegiance), also known as Bait al-Mullā, is one of the most important landmarks in Al-Hufūf as it hosted King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Āl-Saʿūd when he came to the city. It is also the exact location where the people of the Al-Aḥsāʾ region pledged allegiance to the King upon the Qur’ān and Sunnah. The House is located in the Al-Kut neighbourhood of Hufūf and has an area of about 705 square metres. It was founded by Shaykh ʿAbdu- Raḥmān bin ʿAmr bin Muḥammad bin ʿUmar Al-Mullā, who was the judge of Al-Aḥsāʾ in 1203 Hijrī. The house has been turned into an open museum and displays many documents and relics that contain the history of Al-Aḥsāʾ and its people. The House displays the room where the King slept during his visit, including the bed on which he slept. The Majālis rooms where the people took their allegiance have also been preserved and restored, keeping to the House’s architectural style.
Masjid Juwātha
After a quick look around, we left for our next destination, which we were all looking forward to, Juwātha Mosque. Having previously come across the name of the Mosque in various narrations in the books of Ḥadīth, it intrigued the student’s mind. Located 12km north-east of Al-Hufūf is Juwātha, where the earliest known Mosque in eastern Arabia was built. The original construction of the Masjid is suggested to be around the 7th Hijrī and was built at the hands of the Banū ʿAbdul-Qays tribe, which lived there before and during the early Islamic period. The Mosque is where the second Friday congregation prayer in Islām was offered, the first being held in the Prophet’s ﷺ Mosque in Madīnah. As narrated by Ibn ʿAbbās h, who states: “The first Jumuʿah prayer, which was offered after the Jumuʿah prayer offered at the Mosque of Allāh’s Prophet ﷺ, took place in the Mosque of the tribe of ʿAbdul Qais at Juwātha in Baḥrain (Modern Day East Saudi Arabia) [Bukhārī 892]. The ruins of the original Masjid are no longer visible. Instead, the Masjid has been restored as a new structure. It didn’t seem like congregational prayers took place, as there was no carpeting or ablution area. Keeping in mind, the Masjid is far from any proper town or village. However, there is a recreational resort-type park adjacent to the Masjid. Visiting such places in person, which we may have read about or studied previously, is always a treat; rather, it consolidates and helps a person remember the incident and the Prophet’s ﷺ narrations better for future reference.
The Floating Rock
The heat at midday was intense, much warmer than anticipated and experienced after the winter months. Thus, we toured the Masjid quickly and left for our next destination, ‘The Floating Rock’ and ‘Al-Qārah Mountains’. ‘The Floating Rock’, a highly controversial rock at the centre of many mysteries and myths, was something we had to check for ourselves. For a while, an image of a floating rock had been shared on social media, resulting in multiple mystical theories about how the rock was floating. These theories included that this was the very rock upon which the Prophet ﷺ ascended to the heavens or that the rock only elevates once a year in April (as preposterous as that sounds). In reality, the rock is held upon three small stones and, from certain angles, seems as though it is suspended. The picture shared on social media, which shows it to be levitating, was edited and caused a stir among the public. It is on the side of the road, on the way to Al-Qārah Mountains.
Al-Qārah Mountain- Museum and Cave
Located between Al-Tuwaitheer village and Al-Qarah village in Al-Aḥsāʾ, Al-Qārah Mountain is considered one of the most important natural sights in Al-Aḥsāʾ, and is registered as a UNESCO world heritage site. It is said that it is a site showing evidence of ancient settlements in the region dating back to 5,000 BC. We arrived around 3:45 pm and made our way to the reception, where a 50 Riyal entrance fee must be paid to access the caves and museum. Before reaching the cave, visitors are taken through the ‘Land of Civilizations’ Museum, which provides an account of the area’s ancient history, and stories of local legends include the mountain’s rumoured role in the lives of Dilmun kings. It also presents replicas of relics preserved in other museums worldwide, which present stories of early civilisations, including Babylon, Sumerian narrations of the Flood of Noah, and other preserved tablets which tell tales of early civilisations.
After exiting the museum, visitors take a paved path towards the mountain caves. Because of the sub-aerial weathering, the mountain has developed several networks of caves over time and is distinguished by its remarkable shapes and narrow canyons. The caves are remarkable; the high walls, cool limestone and gentle breeze combine to regulate the temperature – making these caverns cool in summer yet warm in winter. As we walked towards the caves, the temperature dropped rapidly, and a cool breeze could be felt, a relief from the scorching heat. It was remarkably cool and made for a pleasant walk around the mountain’s winding caves. After recent renovations, the caves have been made very accessible to the public, with paved walkways and lighting illuminating the limestone cave walls. It is an excellent place for families to visit and spend some time in the evenings when the onsite shows and stores open up. Certain areas within the mountain allow you to scale up to the top and get a stunning view of the region, mainly dominated by limestone cliffs and palm tree gardens. We made our way to the Masjid located onsite, prayed ʿAṣr Ṣalāh and left for our next destination, Khubar, with a short stop at ʿUqair port.
ʿUqair port
Located 70km north-east of Al-Aḥsāʾ is ʿUqair, an ancient seaport city in the Al-Aḥsāʾ Governorate of the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia. It is the first seaport in the Persian Gulf and has been linked by some to the ancient city of Gerrha, mentioned in Greek and Roman sources. The site was also the location of the conference at which the Uqair Protocol of 1922 was issued, which helped to establish the borders of modern Saudi Arabia. With the transformation of commercial routes after the discovery of oil in Abqaiq and Dhahran, ʿUqair’s importance declined as modern paved roads, and more-modern ports close to the oil fields and commercial markets in the Eastern Province were developed. The area has been noted as a place of historical importance by the heritage commission and has been closed to public access; visitors are treated to a beautiful coastline with boat ruins visible on the shoreline. There is a fort-like structure which is visible from the fence, which is of unknown origin; it is not clear who built the fort.
Khubar Nando’s, Corniche
After a short stop, we took the coastal route to Khubar, passing by pristine waters along the way with white sand and picturesque palm trees at sunset. We finally arrived in Khubar around 6:30 pm, checked into our hotel and made our way for dinner at the local Nando’s. With the country’s new directive, there is a significant push for meat to be sourced from within Saudi, something which is visible in most cities around the country, including the Ḥaramain. The Nando’s we visited had fresh and frozen chicken sourced from within the Kingdom, which was a blessing. We had dinner, made a short stop at the Corniche to admire the night view of the city skyline, and thereafter returned to the hotel for the night.
Day 6- Tuesday, 7 March 2023
Khubar, Dammām and Al-Al-Qaṭīf
Khubar
Khubar, a city and governorate in the Eastern Province of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, is situated on the Persian Gulf’s coast and named the region’s residential core along with Dammām and Dhahran. The city was founded alongside Dammām by the Dawāsīr (an Arab tribe), who moved there in 1923 CE with the permission of King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Āl-Saʿūd, fearing British persecution. Khubar experienced rapid growth during and after the discovery of oil in Saudi Arabia as it served as the port for the oil exports of Saudi Aramco in the company’s early days.
King Fahad Causeway Bridge- Baḥrain
Our day started at 8:30 am. Our first stop was the King Fahad Causeway Bridge to Baḥrain, a 25 km long series of bridges and causeways connecting Khubar, Saudi Arabia, and Al Jasra, Baḥrain. The idea to build this bridge was conceived during the 1950s to improve links along with social and cultural ties between Saudi Arabia and Baḥrain. Construction of the bridge was completed in 1986 CE. The causeway looks futuristic with its seven embankments in the shallow water of the Gulf. One of these embankments is called Middle Island or Passport Island, the largest of them all. It has been converted into an artificial island with customs and immigration facilities, a mosque, gardens, and restaurants. The Island has become a tourist attraction for visitors wanting to get a view of the bridge and the pristine turquoise waters of the Gulf. A 25 Riyal fee must be paid to gain access to the bridge for visitors and those wanting to travel to Baḥrain. An additional Visa fee is also applicable for those wishing to travel to Baḥrain. The drive was pleasant, with a cool breeze from the sea and relief from the heat of the morning sun. There was news of some issues with the border control computing systems. Thus, the traffic was heavy. Once we reached close to the middle Island, we spent a good hour sitting in traffic, trying to avoid border control. After a few wrong turns and no entry roads, we eventually made it to the visitor’s car park, had a stroll in the gardens along the coast and admired the view of Khubar in the distance. Baḥrain, although nearby, was not visible due to a morning haze.
Khubar Sea Front
A busy day ahead, we returned to Khubar to visit the Seafront and Corniche, a highly recommended visit for families in the evening. Having arrived early morning, the activities and shops were closed, but a stunning view nonetheless. The seafront promenade stretches up to the city of Dammām and has all kinds of activities and facilities for visitors. Plenty of greenery along the coast allows visitors to sit there and enjoy the spectacular sea views. The three-story Khubar water tower on the Island near the coast is also visible from the seafront as one of the iconic city landmarks. Khubar Water Tower is on an island surrounded by water that connects the Island to the north of the Khubar Corniche. The tower features an international restaurant at the top of the tower. However, the tower was closed when we arrived, and renovation work was taking place.
Masjid Salim bin Laden
Before leaving for our next destination, we spotted a Masjid along the Arabian Gulf coast. We made a short stop to explore, and although we tried to find out more about the Masjid, nothing was displayed beside its name, Masjid Sālim bin Lāden. The Mosque stands slightly out from the coast, giving it a floating look, similar to the Floating Al-Raḥmah Mosque in Jeddah. The Mosque has a picturesque setting with its lone Minaret, dome, and multiple arches. We were able to climb the Minaret to get a view of Khubar city and the Arabian Gulf.
King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Centre for World Culture- Ithra
Just after mid-day, we left for our next stop, The King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Centre for World Culture- Ithra. Situated in Ẓahrān, the outstanding architectural marvel was built by Saudi Aramco and inaugurated by King Salmān bin ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz on 1 December 2016. It is operated by Saudi Aramco and is currently the company’s main corporate social responsibility initiative focusing on culture, learning and cross-cultural activities. The centre is where the first commercial Saudi oilfield was found in March 1938 CE. To an outsider, the structure of the building seems unusual. However, the Ithra building was designed as a collection of stones symbolising unity. Just as the location was symbolic, the building was designed with a purposeful expression of time, with the tower representing the future, the ground floor components representing the present, and the underground components preserving the past. Initially, we had planned to spend little time at Ithra. However, as we entered, we saw signs of an exhibition which spiked the student’s mind. The centre runs different exhibitions and programmes throughout the year, and it so happened that an exhibition on the Hijrah of the Prophet ﷺ was taking place. There was a 50 Riyal entry free for both the Hijrah Exhibition and another museum focused on different historical and Islamic aspects.
Ithra- Hijrah Exhibition
The Hijrah Exhibition: In the Footsteps of the Prophet ﷺ, was put together to shed light on the Prophet ﷺ ‘s Hijrah from Makkah to Madīnah. One of the most important historical Islamic events and an inspirational journey that shaped the beginning of Islām and the launch of a civilisation that has changed the world. The Hijrah exhibition was founded in collaboration with the National Museum in Riyāḍ, the House of Islamic Art, the King ʿAbdul-ʿAzīz Complex for Waqf Libraries, and Turquoise Mountain. Numerous artefacts provided by different partners were all on display. The Hijrah exhibition begins with the initial plot by the Makkans in the House of Dārul Arqam, a unique area simulating the House of Arqam has been created for visitors to enter and watch a cinematic film showcasing the series of events which occurred therein. The exhibit continues with various stops along the way, including a remake of the cave of Thawr, the tent of Umm Maʿbad and other instances. The uniqueness of the exhibit is such that every milestone in the journey has been recreated physically, along with a cinematic film showcasing its importance and history. For example, a remake of the Umm Maʿbads tent, which visitors can enter and watch a film which shows both remakes and historical findings from distinguished Sīrah experts. Every part of the journey has been presented in detail, including milestones along the journey which have been unearthed and had inscriptions from earlier generations.
The exhibit ends with manuscripts of the Shamāil, carpets and rugs from Al-Masjid Al-Nabawī, which were hung at the ascension of a new Sulṭān and various other modern Sīrah-inspired artworks. Both Muslims and non-Muslims were present at the exhibit, all of whom seemed to be taking a keen interest in the Sīrah.
From Earth Exhibit and Ithra Museum
The second part of Ithra was the ‘From Earth’ Exhibit and Ithra Museum. ‘From Earth’ is an art exhibition that focuses on Saudi artists’ relationship to the natural heritage and landscape of Saudi Arabia and their significant impact on the artists’ form of expression; it was a short walk before reaching the museum. Ithra Museum is home to five galleries dedicated to contemporary Middle Eastern Art, Saudi culture, Islamic art, the natural history of the Arabian Peninsula, and the Archive gallery.
With each gallery focusing on a specific theme, every gallery is unique. The one that intrigued the most was a gallery which focused on Islamic History, wherein remakes of the great Mosques of the world are presented (such as The Great Mosque of Xi’an in China or the Great Mosque of Damascus and many more), the mosques can also be visited by a VR experience offered to visitors. The gallery holds relics from various Mosques, along with foundation stones, carpets, Meḥrāb’s and more.
At the end of the museum, visitors are treated to a 90-foot-tall artwork which consists of three towering bronze trees that grow from the base of the source, the physical core of Ithra. It is the location where the first commercial Saudi oilfield was founded in 1938 CE.
Ithra Library
Before we left, we made a short stop at Ithra’s three-story library, a haven for readers, learners and lovers of books and knowledge. It is one of the largest public libraries in the region, offering over 315,000 books spread over three floors. The library had a perfectly calm environment, as if it tempts you to pick up a book and spend the rest of the day there. We left Ithra shortly after 3 pm and made our way to Dammām.
Dammām
A 30-minute drive from Ẓahrān, Dammām is the fifth-most populous city in Saudi Arabia after Riyāḍ, Jeddah, Makkah, and Madīnah. It is the capital of the Eastern Province, with a total population of 1,252,523 as of 2020. Dammām is known for being a major administrative centre for the Saudi oil industry; along with its industrial significance, Dammām is a modern metropolis that thrives on its coastal location and is known for its lush green parks, airy waterfronts and sandy beaches.
Murjān Island
Our first stop in Dammām was Murjān Island, also known as Coral Island, an artificial island in Dammām. It is off Cornish Road and features a park with picnic areas, ferry-boat rides, and a playground. The Island is connected to the Dammām pier by a bridge. Visitors can climb to the top of the tower at the Island’s centre and get a view of Dammām city, the seafront, and Corniche. The Island is lined with ice cream and food trucks, which would be a real treat in the evenings; we enjoyed some ice cream along the coast and then made our way to Dammām’s Heritage Village, Al-Qariyah Al-Shʿabiyyah.
Al Qariyah Al-Shʿabiyyah- Dammām Corniche
The popular village is one of the prominent tourist attractions in the Eastern Region. Visiting the Heritage Village is like visiting many parts of the Kingdom, where visitors can experience Saudi civilisation with its past and present by wandering the 5-story building. The village also boasts an impressive collection of classic cars, including a classic red Cadillac 77, once owned by the current King Salmān. Just a few steps away from the museum is Dammām Corniche, a picturesque spot at sunset, ideal for enjoying the cool breeze from the sea against the high temperatures. After our initial delayed start to our trip, the rest of the itinerary had to be adjusted to fit everything in. Initially, we had planned to stay the night in Dammām and then explore Al-Al-Qaṭīf the following day before returning to Madīnah. However, we now planned to complete Al-Al-Qaṭīf on the same day and return to Riyāḍ for the night.
Al-Qaṭīf
Al-Qaṭīf is a governorate and urban area in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia. It extends from Ras Tanura and Jubail in the north to Dammām in the south and from the Persian Gulf in the East to King Fahd International Airport in the west. Al-Qaṭīf is one of the oldest settlements in Eastern Arabia, its history going back to 3500 BC, more than 5000 years ago, and was part of the Baḥrain Region, which was called Dilmun at that time; the Sumerians knew it as the land of Paradise, immortality, and life. Al-Qaṭīf functioned for centuries as the most important trade port in Eastern Arabia, to the point where the whole Persian Gulf was labelled ‘Sea of Al-Qaṭīf’. The Al-Qaṭīf region is the largest concentration of Shia in Saudi Arabia; less than 10% of Al-Qaṭīf are Sunni Muslims. Al-Qaṭīf is the centre of the Shia population in Saudi Arabia.
Qarqīʿān
It so happened we had arrived in Al-Al-Qaṭīf on the 15th of Shaʿbān, a day that Shias celebrate as Qarqīʿān. Shia believes that Qarqīʿān is two nights, the first on the 15th of Shaʿbān, which marks the birthday of Muḥammad al-Mahdī, the 12th Imām and the second on the 15th of Ramaḍān, which coincides with the birth of Hasan ibn Ali, the second Imam in Shism and the fifth Rashidun caliph in Sunnī Islām. As a result, Shias sees the occasion as a time of happiness and festivities. Events at night include the preaching of sermons in mosques and carnival-like attractions in the capital cities of Eastern Arabia. The city was lit up and extremely busy with manic traffic. We arrived shortly before sunset and had our Asr Ṣalāh remaining. Thus, we stopped at a Masjid. Wary of the Masājid in the area, we entered a Masjid Abū Dhar Al-Ghifārī (a venerated companion of the companion in Shims, too) and soon realised it was Shia-influenced. The locals were polite and didn’t have an issue with us praying as a congregation at the back of the Masjid. We prayed Ṣalāh and left for our first stop in Al-Al-Qaṭīf, Tārūt Fort.
Tārūt Castle
Fort Tārūt, or Tārūt Castle, is a historic castle located at the top of a hill in the centre of Tārūt Island. The fort dates back to 5000 years ago, with many inscriptions found in it as well as the Mesopotamian God’s statues. The castle was built on the base of an old Phoenician temple dedicated to Ashtar, from which the name Tārūt is derived. Other researchers believe it was built in the 16th century between 1515 and 1520 CE during the Portuguese invasion of the Persian Gulf and was once one of their defence points. Later, once the Portuguese left, the castle was left in ruins. Many inscriptions have also been found in the castle, along with the Mesopotamian statues. The fort is located on a hill in the centre of Tārūt Island; the hill is the highest feature on the Island. There used to be a spring beside the castle called ‘ʿAyn Al-Oudda’ (the old spring), which was the Island’s primary water source. The heritage commission preserves the area, and it seems there is no public access to the castle.
Palace of Muḥammad ibn ʿAbd ul-Wahhāb Faihānī
As Maghrib time approached, we expected the evening to be filled with the Adhān echoing from the Minarets of the Masjid; however, for the first time during our time in Saudi, there was no Adhān heard from the minarets. It seems the Shia community are not allowed to give their Adhān in public. We could hear it being given within the Masājid but not aloud. Our final stop in Al-Qaṭīf was the Palace of Muḥammad ibn ʿAbd ul-Wahhāb Faihānī. The palace is located on an ancient hill, the oldest of which dates back to the Hellenistic period and continues to the Islamic period. The palace was built in the year 1241 Hijrī and was restored in 1303 Hijrī by Shaykh Muḥammad ibn ʿAbdul Wahhāb al-Faihānī, one of the most famous merchants in the Arabian Gulf. The palace in its heyday overlooked the sea and consisted of two floors with a group of rooms, warehouses, and halls, in addition to the horse yard. The palace is distinguished by its unique architectural facades, towers, architectural details and elements characteristic of the Islamic style. Today the palace lies in ruins and is fenced off by the heritage commission; visitors can look around the palace’s boundary.
The evening fast approached, and we had a long way back to Riyāḍ; we left Al-Qaṭīf just after 6 pm, stopped in Dammām for dinner and continued the 4hr 30min journey to Riyāḍ. We arrived in Riyāḍ around 1 am- and found that the hotel we had booked had cancelled our booking. We drove around the area for a hotel, eventually found one after an hour, and took rest for the night.
Day 7- Wednesday, 8 March 2023
Return to Madīnah
Martyrs of the Battle of Yamāmah- Jubaylah
After much-needed rest, our day started at 9 am for our return journey back to Madīnah, along with a few stops. We left Riyāḍ for our first stop of the day, Jubaylah, where the Martyrs of the Battle of Yamāmah are buried. The Battle of Yamāmah took place in the year 11 Hijrī during the reign of Abū Bakr Al-Ṣiddīq. Yamāmah was one of the battles of the apostasy wars and was due to the apostasy of Banū Ḥanīfa and the claim of Musaylimah of being a Prophet. The Muslim army was 13,000, and the army of Musaylamah was 40,000. The battle of Yamāmah was the bloodiest battle so far fought by the Muslims. It was a decisive battle that established the supremacy of Islām in Central Arabia. It proved to be a great trial of strength, and though the Muslims won the victory, this was achieved at a high cost. The casualties of Banū Ḥanīfa were staggering. As many as 7,000 followers of Musaylamah died in the battle, and an equal number fell in the Garden of Death. 1,200 Muslims met their martyrdom in this battle. Although the number was very much less than the number of the dead of Banū Ḥanīfa, the loss was nevertheless colossal. We reached the grave site just after noon; there were two graveyards with signage stating where the martyrs are buried; we visited both cemeteries, paid our respects and continued our journey. It is mentioned that 50 of the martyrs of Yamāmah were Badrī Ṣaḥāba, and 360 of the martyrs were Ḥuffāẓ of the Qur’ān.
Ḥuraymilaʾ
An hour into our return journey, we passed by a town which sounded familiar, Ḥuraymilaʾ. Ḥuraymilaʾ is one of the governorates in the Riyāḍ Region and is famous for being the home town of Ibn ʿAbdul Wahhāb. Ḥuraymilaʾ embraced Ibn ʿAbdul Wahhāb during the early days of his Daʿwah when he moved to his House in the town, built in 1140 Hijrī it was originally a residence for his father. He remained in Ḥuraymilah for multiple years and it is where he began writing his works, such as Kitāb Tawḥīd and Kashf Shubuhāt. He would preach and conduct lessons in the Masjid, known as Masjid Qurāshah. The Masjid remains to this day despite the torrential floods that the city experienced in 1418 Hijrī. We visited the Mosque. However, it was closed, and congregational prayer was not taking place, as there was no carpeting or maintenance. The Masjid, however, did have a plaque indicating its most recent renovation, which was completed in 2015. Ibn ʿAbdul Wahhāb’s house was near the Mosque but has since been demolished.
Edge of the world
Our initial itinerary for Riyāḍ included ‘Edge of the world’, a stunning cliff that lies some 100 km from Riyāḍ at the end of the 800 km extending Tuwaik Mountain range. However, after our escapade with the car in the deserts of Al-Rabadha, we were reluctant to take the car off-road into the desert again. Thus, we decided to leave it for another time and return in a more suitable car. However, on our return to Madīnah, the Tuwaik mountain range, which features the ‘Edge of the World’, was visible. The Tuwaik Mountain cliffs rise dramatically from the desert, stretching toward the sky like a great natural wall. If one were to stand atop them and look toward the horizon, you would have a prime view of the sky as it seems to melt into the barren earth. The Edge of the World is an unexpected and dramatic geological wonder in the rocky desert, giving one an uninterrupted view of the horizon. We made a short stop alongside the road and then continued into the depth of the red-sand desert.
Al-Qaṣāb Salt Flats
As we drove further into the desert road, a sandstorm was brewing; the sky turned orange as the sun disappeared behind the thick smog-like haze. After an hour’s drive, we reached The Qaṣāb Salt Flats in the Shaqra Governorate. The Qaṣāb Salt Flats are the most extensive salt flats in Najd and one of the largest in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. They are the primary source of salt in Saudi Arabia and have become a popular tourist destination where visitors can learn about natural salt extraction and processing. Al-Qaṣāb is an ancient city famous even before Islām for its salt and wheat production. The Salt Flats make for an interesting site to visit as you can witness the production of raw salt from flat expanses of ground covered with salt. It produces about 200,000 tons of salt annually and has been famous since ancient times for its high-quality salt and is still sold in plastic packets throughout the Kingdom. With recent tourist destinations development within the Kingdom, the salt flats have also been made accessible to the public. As you enter the town, signage posts have been placed for visitors to visit the salt flats and witness the salt extraction. We arrived at the site and spoke to the workers, who informed us of the process. We were also able to buy a Kilogram bag of salt for half a Riyal!
Al-Rāshid Palace
Returning to Al-Qaṣāb, we saw a Heritage Commission sign near an old mud-built building with an exhibition. We made a short stop to find out more. As we came closer, we realised the sheer size of the building, which seemed to be more of a palace. The building was, in fact, Al-Rashid Palace. The National Urban Heritage Centre (NUHC) is restoring four historical palaces in the Kingdom to transform them into cultural and heritage centres, which, besides hosting events, will also house museums to exhibit local culture and heritage and promote domestic tourism. Given by their owners to the Saudi Commission for Tourism and National Heritage, the SCTNH plans to use these historic palaces after restoration to House local museums. It will periodically host cultural and heritage events for tourism purposes. Of those four mansions is Al-Rāshid Palace in Al-Qaṣāb. The construction of the Al-Rāshid palace dates back to 1375 Hijrī, which consists of two floors that contain several rooms, open spaces, and services. The building is characterised by triangular balconies at the front of the House; and decorations and wooden doors with distinctive inscriptions and colours. The House when we visited was being used for a salt exhibition to showcase natural salt extraction and processing.
Ushaiger Heritage Village
Our final stop of the day before a 5 hour’s drive back to Madīnah was Ushaiger Heritage Village. Hidden in the heart of Najd, an oasis-dotted region 200km northwest of Riyāḍ, Ushaiger Heritage Village provides a glimpse of a slow-paced Saudi society of old. Bedouins first settled here 1,500 years ago, and Ushaiger quickly became a popular stopping point for pilgrims crossing to Makkah, thanks to its springs and low-brimmed olive and palm groves. Encased in thick walls, Ushaiger is a labyrinth of winding alleyways, shaded pathways and timber-framed walkways, crossing between hundreds of mud houses. The village is divided into districts and bisected by groves of palm trees and includes a cluster of beautifully renovated houses. These offer a stunning example of Najdī architecture, with its distinctive triangular windows, roofs, and ornately carved wooden doors. Some still bear the names of the families who lived there.
After a short stroll around the winding alleys of the village and the mud-built houses, we left Ushaiger for our 5-hour drive back to Madīnah. We arrived in Madīnah at 1:15 am marking the end of our 7-day trip to Eastern Saudi.