Day 1- Monday 28th November
Bir Al- Rawḥā’, Bir Shifā’, Badr, Al-Rayes, Al-Abwa, Makkah
Departure from Madīnah
After an eventful first week on the road exploring the North of Saudi, it was a good opportunity within our holiday period to explore the South too. With an initial plan to only travel until Abha, an 8-hour drive from Madīnah, we eventually changed plans and extended our trip by two days travelling further South until Jazan and eventually the Island of Farasan
Bir Al- Rawḥā’
After a day’s rest, on Monday morning at 8am we departed from Madīnah to Makkah with a few stops on the way, including the well of Rawḥā’ and Shifā’, Badr, the coastal town of Al-Rayes, and Abwā’
Al-Rawḥā’ is a place outside of Madīnah where the Prophet ﷺ and the Ṣaḥāba rested on their march to Badr. It is also reported that the Prophet ﷺ drank from its well. Al-Rawḥā’ is known to be the place where many previous Prophets passed through on their way to the Makkah. I visited this area in 2019 and saw the remains of a historic Masjid. The Masjid in 2019 was in a state of despair. It is currently closed off and being renovated under Mohammad bin Salman’s project for developing historical mosques. The project to renovate 130 historical mosques throughout the Kingdom has been in full force since 2018 and was visible throughout our trip.
The area is also narrated to be the place where ‘Isa will pass by near the end of time, as narrated by Imām Muslim in his Ṣaḥīḥ, “Ḥanzalah al-Aslamī reported: I heard Abu Ḥurairah narrating from Allāh’s Messenger ﷺ who said: By Him in Whose Hand is my life. Ibn Maryam would certainly pronounce Talbiya for Ḥajj or for ‘Umrah or for both in the valley of Rawḥā’” [Muslim 1252].
The well is closed off visibly, however water pumps allow visitors to drink from the well at a distance. We were able to fill a bottle of water from the well.
Bir Shifā’
Just a few Kilometres from Bir Al- Rawḥā’ is Bir-Shifā’. Although there are varying narrations regarding this well and some doubt in its authenticity, we visited it nonetheless as it was on our way to Badr.
Located 80km from Madīnah, in a village called ‘Āliya. It is reported that the Prophet ﷺ was passing by this village with his Ṣaḥāba and halted to consume water from this well. The villagers stopped them from drinking the well’s water as it was bitter. The Prophet ﷺ spat into the well, and the water turned sweet and fit for consumption. It is mentioned that the water from this well has been known to be a cure for ailments and illnesses. Allāh knows best. During my previous visit in 2019, water from the well was still being drawn via a bucket and rope. It has now been fitted with a motor and visitors are able to drink the water from taps situated on the side of the well.
Badr
Badr today is a small town 130km from Madīnah and is the location for one of the most decisive battles in Islamic History, where a mere 313 Muslim army, who were outnumbered enormously by the Mushrikīn, returned victoriously. Badr lay 45 minutes away from Bir Shifā’. We arrived just before noon and went to the graveyard where the 14 martyrs of Badr are buried. The graveyard itself is not accessible as is the norm in Saudi, however, you are able to see through the gates. Just as you drive up to the main area of the graveyard the names of the 14 martyrs are displayed in the square. We stopped for a short while, paid our respects and left to see the site of the battlefield.
Located a few minutes away from the graveyard is Masjid ‘Arīsh, built on the site where the tent of the Prophet ﷺ was pitched during the Battle of Badr, it is the very place where the Prophet ﷺ continuously made Duā’ to Allāh for victory. As narrated by Imām Bukhārī in his Ṣahīh on the authority of Ibn ‘Abbas, “while in his tent on the day the Battle of Badr, the Prophet ﷺ said, “O Allāh! I request You (to fulfil) Your promise and contract. O Allāh! If You wish that the Believers, be destroyed). You will never be worshipped henceforth.” On that, Abū Bakr held the Prophet ﷺ by the hand and said, “That is enough, O Allāh’s Messenger You have appealed to your Lord too pressingly” The Prophet ﷺ was wearing his armour and then went out reciting: ‘Their multitude will be put to flight and they will show their backs. Nay, but the Hour is their appointed time (for their full recompense), and the Hour will be more previous and most bitter.’ (54.45-46)” [Bukhārī 4877]
The Masjid itself was closed and work seemed to be taking place on the refurbishment of the Masjid. Just behind the Masjid, there is an open field which is the battlefield of Badr. We were informed that within this area is the well in which the head of Abu Jahl was thrown.
Badr’s climate throughout the year is warmer than other parts of Saudi, it was humid and hot despite it being so close to winter. It really makes you ponder on how the Ṣaḥāba (many who were on foot) and the Prophet ﷺ travelled 130km from Madīnah through the deserts and mountains to Badr for the battle, and then partook in the battle in these conditions.
Al-Rayes
Our next stop lay 30mins away, the coastal town Al-Rayes within the Madīnah region. Al-Rayes is located on the shore of the Red Sea where visitors enjoy its crystal-clear waters and white sandy beaches. We arrived around 1 pm and made a short visit to a well-known beach spot known as ‘Al-Rayes White Head Beach’. There is no proper road to the beach hence most of it is off-road through swamps and sand. The town was unusually quiet as were the beaches, possibly due to the afternoon sun. We prayed Ṣalāh at the Jam’i Masjid of Al-Rayes and made our way to a fresh fish restaurant to enjoy the local cuisine. As we entered, fresh fish was brought in and put on display for us to choose from, before either being fried or grilled as per our choice. The fish was exceedingly tasty as was the heap of rice it was presented with.
Never having previously travelled such distances in Saudi we were surprised to find that nearly all of Saudi is connected by well-built highways and roads, which makes for a pleasant journey especially when driving up to 12 hours a day. As we finished from Al-Rayes, making our way down South, we realised that Al-Abwa fell on our route.
Al-Abwa
Al-Abwa, a village between Makkah and Madīnah is famously known to be where the Prophet ﷺ’s mother, Āminah is buried. It was also blessed with the Prophet ﷺ’s arrival in 2AH on the way to the battle of Badr. We had followed the location where the grave was located and were advised beforehand to be cautious of the locals following us. The gravesite is located in between mountains off the main road. As we arrived, we saw a car coming behind us in the distance, a group of youngsters came out of the car and began asking questions as to who we were and why we had come here. We informed them of why we were there, but their crude temperament made it obvious they were there to cause trouble. We left the area and continued our journey to Makkah to perform our ‘Umrah
Makkah- ‘Umrah
Makkah lay 261km away from Abwa, a 2-hour 45 min journey with deadlock traffic on the way in Jeddah. We arrived in Makkah just before 9 pm, checked in to our hotel and made our way to the Ḥaram to perform our ‘Umrah. Alḥamdulillāh, we completed our ‘Umrah before midnight and returned to our hotel to rest for the long day ahead of us and the early morning the following day.
Day 7- Tuesday 29th November 22
Ṭāif, Al-Bāha- Masjid Al-Atawlah, viewpoint- Abha
An early morning start at the crack of dawn was the start of many early mornings in our coming days. The journey would take us from Makkah through Ṭāif down to Bāha, all the way South to Abha- which was calculated to be 8hrs and 30mins. We left Makkah at 7.45 am and began our journey to Abha. Our first stop in Ṭāif would be a short one, as we had planned to explore Ṭāif on our return leg back to Madīnah.
Passing through Taif
Ṭāif lies 86km from Makkah, approximately an hour’s drive through stunning mountain roads, and up daring cliff faces. The new road that has been built up the mountain is a scenic route with stunning views down towards Makkah in the far distance. As we climbed further up the mountain the temperature dropped and the cool fresh breeze was a relief from the hustle and bustle of the cities we had been used to. The freshness and purity of the air can be felt immediately and is refreshing, to say the least. At an elevation of nearly 1,900ft, Ṭāif enjoys the cool weather all year round. The city is lush with greenery and almost makes you feel like it’s an oasis in the Arabian desert. We stopped over at a local garage to check the oil and water, ensuring the car was safe and ready for the arduous journey ahead. Most cities within Saudi have a ‘Petromin’, a local car garage which is professional and convenient. We made a short stop for some breakfast and continued further South to Bāha.
We had quickly realised that the South was scattered with speed cameras every 2 or 3km, much more than the North. In Saudi, the cameras are either for speeding, phone usage, or seatbelt with the fines varying accordingly. Whilst driving you have to be much more alert compared to the UK as occasionally you pass by a camera with no prior warning or sign.
Our priority was to reach Abha before nightfall hence we planned to make a short stop in Bāha, checking out the main tourist spots before departing. We were informed by a friend of a few places to check out in Bāha, including the old village and a viewpoint.
Al-Bāha- The Old Village and Mosque
Tucked amidst craggy mountains, the province is known for its beauty, from forests and wildlife areas to its valleys and mountains, which attract visitors from all parts of the Kingdom and the Persian Gulf area. The city is situated at an altitude of 2,500 metres among the cliffs of the Sarawat mountains and receives relatively high rainfall all year round, its temperate climate gives this area a dense plant cover and lush greenery making the view a pleasant one.
Our first stop was Al-Atawlah heritage village, located on a hill amidst two valleys. The houses of the village are built of stones and have recently been restored to be a tourist attraction. The village features some heritage sites including the old mosque, the Damas fortress, Al-Othman fortress, and some beautiful ancient houses with wonderful architecture. The atmosphere in this area is not something which can be put into words, a refreshingly cool breeze, the smell of fresh greenery, the view of the Sarawat mountains with their cascading roads and the sound of 10’s of species of birds chirping.
The highlight of the village was a 900-year-old mosque which had recently been refurbished under Mohammad bin Salman’s project for Historical Mosques Renovation in the Kingdom. The refurbishment was completed in early 2021 and seemed to be the first of the 130 mosques in line for renovation. The old eponymous mosque at the heart of the village is considered one of the oldest in the region and was the only one in the area where Friday prayers used to be performed. It was built more than 900 years ago and was left abandoned for nearly 20 years after another modern mosque was built in the village. Originally built from irregularly shaped stones and a roof from juniper trees accommodates about 130 worshipers. The mosque’s renovation has been carried out in a manner preserving the essence of the old Mosque, with a modern touch. The mosque now enjoys a comfortable prayer area and a traditional ablution area. The unique ablution area was special and preserves a piece of history. Worshippers are required to pull water from the nearby well and fill in the ablution holes before sitting on the mud-built structure to do their ablution.
Before leaving the village, we spotted a few different coloured birds flying and tried to find where they had gathered. We eventually found a small area where 10s of different coloured birds were. In their yellows, blues, greens and reds the birds were truly a marvel and makes you ponder upon the creation of the Almighty.
Al-Bāha Viewpoint
Half an hour’s drive further south, and higher up the mountains was the highest viewpoint in Bāha. The viewpoint gives you a complete view of the city as far as the eye can see. There is also the Raghadan forest park nearby with a zoo and area for families. The views were stunning! Places such as Al-Baha are hidden gems which are only recently being opened up for tourism. Throughout our trip, we realised the unlimited potential the Kingdom has for tourism with its untouched natural beauty and historical landmarks.
Our next stop and layover for the night was Abha, a 5hr 15min drive from Al-Baha. The 5-hour drive went by in good company and stunning scenery. The scenic route up mountains and down valleys makes the drive one to remember. We stopped off for Ṣalāh at Jāmi’ Shaqīq Shamrān a recently built mosque situated on a cliff face in-between the mountains which had only opened a few months prior. A blessing in Saudi is that even in the most remote places you’ll find a Masjid, and often a hidden gem. Masājid are scattered in every neighbourhood within a Km of each other, which makes it convenient and easy for any traveller to pray.
Throughout our drive, we encountered sun, rain, lightning and occasionally a swarm of monkeys on the road. Every road that came with its scenery seemed to be better than the previous. As we climbed higher in altitude the climate became cooler and colder. After nearly 12 hours on the road, Abha was in sight. A city situated on the top of a mountain at an altitude of 2,270 metres and home to the highest point in Saudi Arabia, Jabal Soudah, which holds an elevation of 3,133 metres. After a long and tiring day, we reached Abha around 8.30 pm
Abha
Between the peaks of the Sarawat Mountains is the scenic capital of the ‘Asīr province, Abha. Ideally located in the South-Western region of Saudi Arabia its exceptional location allows you to embrace the clouds and wander around its mountaintops whilst enjoying its ideal climate. Abha is home to some of the tallest peaks in Saudi and is an increasingly popular destination both for locals and international tourists.
Coming from the UK, and being acclimatised to the cold weather we thought the climate would be ideal. However, we soon realised it was the winter months and the climate was not moderate, to say the least. It was cold, very cold. The hotel expectedly had no heating and was one to remember. As we arrived at our hotel on a hilltop, the clouds passed by us and hovered over the city allowing a stunning sight for spectators. We checked in to our hotel and made our way for dinner at a well-known traditional Arab spot ‘Bāb al-Turāth’, an exceptionally well-designed restaurant built within what seemed like a castle. Guests are treated to an open-top seating area with palm trees and streams running through the centre. Ideal for a summer month but not winter! We warmed ourselves with some traditional Maghribī Chai followed by some tender Ḥāshī (camel meat) and Kabsa (an Arab mixed rice dish). We returned to our hotel for the night to rest for the long day ahead of us
Day 8- Wednesday 30th November
Sunrise at Jab Soudah, Ottoman Fort, Strawberry Farm, Jabal Soudah Viewpoint, Jazan
Sunrise at Jabal Soudah
A 4.30 am start to the day, we had planned to catch sunrise atop Jabal Soudah. 30mins away from our hotel was the highest point of the mountain which gives views of the surrounding mountains and the valley down below. We reached just before sunrise and waited as the sun rose to a spectacular clear blue sky. The morning chill with the heat from the rising sun is something which must be experienced and cannot be explained. The high-tops are home to hundreds of monkeys which scatter across the mountain, many of whom had beaten us to the viewpoint for sunrise.
We returned to our hotel, checked out and made our way for some breakfast at a small Greek-inspired coffee shop. The food was exceptionally well made and was a treat for the long day ahead
Ottoman Fort
Our first stop in Abha was Shamsān Fort, one of the oldest landmarks in Abha, dating back to the Ottoman empire. The fort is located on top of a mountain where you can enjoy a panoramic view of many of the city’s landmarks. Shamsān Castle carries both military and religious importance, it was used to protect the region until some parts of it were destroyed in 1933. Cannons were also fired from the castle during Ramadhan to signify the end of the day’s fast; they were later restored by tourism authorities to attract visitors before being retired for good after a few years.
Strawberry Farm
Strawberry picking in Abha is unique. Due to the ideal climate, Abha enjoys strawberries all year round. We visited one of many farms in Abha and enjoyed some of the freshly picked strawberries, as well as trying some of the jam produced from the farm’s strawberries. Being conscious of the time we made our way to our next stop, a viewpoint of the mountains, which fell on our route to Jazan.
Jabal Soudah Viewpoint
Al Soudah View Point located at the peak of the mountain gives a remarkable view of the hills and valleys down below, as well as the winding road across the cliff face. The mountains of the region are famous for being covered with dense juniper trees, and if the weather is favourable, you can see clouds floating just above you or below. We stopped off for a short while and enjoyed the view, before picking up some fresh fruits from the fruit huts located near the viewpoint. The steep mountainous zig-zag winding road down the mountain is not for the faint-hearted, but is a true driving experience. Within 10 minutes we were down the mountain, but we soon realised how treacherous the road truly was. We heard the breaks squealing and a strong smell of burning, we parked up and found the breaks were on fire. A quick google search told us to park the car and let the brakes cool for 30mins before driving again, and not to pour any kind of liquid onto the brakes! We waited at the side of the road, taking in the breath-taking view of the road we had just come down and the sheer size of the mountain. Around 2.30 pm we left for another 3hr drive down to the port city of Jaza
Initially, Jazan and Farasan Islands were never planned into our itinerary and were meant to be a trip for another time via flight. The main reason for not planning it in was due to its distance from Madīnah- 1,119km and a 12hr 30min drive- however, a friend suggested that if we were already in Abha, Jazan and Farasan Islands was only a couple hours away and would be worth the trip. We changed our itinerary accordingly, extended the trip by one more day and made our way to the most southern city in Saudi Arabia, Jazan.
Jazan
Jazan is an important port city situated on the Red Sea and is located on the pristine coast of the Red Sea giving the city incredible views. The incredible beauty and natural diversity of the region attract the attention of locals as well as international tourists. The area surrounding Jazan is distinct in the sense that it does not have the typical huge sand dunes that are commonly found in the Saudi Arabian desert. Instead, you will find low-lying, white sand dunes. The Farasan Islands are situated opposite Jazan City at a distance of approximately 40 km. These Islands are a jewel of the Red Sea and offer unparalleled and unspoiled biodiversity. The main reason for our stop in Jazan was to cross over to Farasan Islands via ferry from the port of Jazan which only leaves twice a day.
We arrived in Jazan around 5 pm and found the air to be humid and hot. The Tihamah coastal region is one of the hottest regions of the country. Temperatures can rise above 45°C. It is not only hot but also humid in these coastal regions. On the other side, the mountainous areas of the region offer a much milder climate. The city was lively and set apart from the cities we had passed through over the week. It is currently the centre of the Jazan refinery megaproject which is set to process heavy and medium crude oil to create liquefied petroleum gas along with other important by-products. It is expected to have a massive output of 400,000 barrels per day. Due to its port usage, agricultural heartland, and trading the city enjoys a multicultural environment with workers and traders from all over the world.
We stopped off at -Jāmi’ al-Noor- King ‘Abdullāh bin ‘Abdul- ‘Azīz Mosque a beautifully designed mosque near the coast boasting arches and architecture which finely represents Islamic heritage and culture. We offered Ṣalāḥ and made our way to book our ferry tickets for the following day.
Ferry Booking
The only way to reach the Farasan Islands is by ferry, offered by the government free of charge departing twice a day. The first is at 7 am and the second at 3 pm. Near the port, there is an office that deals with tickets and bookings. Initially, we had planned to ferry the car over too, which would save us hiring a taxi on the Island. However, the booking for cars was not available until 2 days later. We planned to leave for the Farasan Islands on Wednesday morning and return on the 3 pm ferry, however, there were no bookings for the 3 pm return ferry, which meant we would have to stay the night in Farasan and return to Jazan on Friday morning, thus extending our trip by another day. This was a blessing which we realised later on during our trip, as our initial plan would not have allowed us to explore the Islands fully. After booking our tickets for the following morning, we went to check into our hotel and take some rest, before heading out for some dinner later on in the evening.
The evening of Wednesday the 29th of November was the night when Saudi Arabia faced Mexico in the World Cup, meaning coffee places and hotel lobbies were full of Saudi fans coming out in full force to support their country, the night came to a disappointing end with Saudi losing 2-1 to Mexico. We returned to our hotel for the night to get some rest before the early morning ferry the next day.
Day 9- Thursday 1st December
Farasan, Al-Qassar Village, Ottoman Fort, House of Al-Rifāī’, Masjid Najdī, Ghābat ul-Qandal
Farasan
About 40 kilometres from Jazan lies a small coral island group known as the Farasan Islands. An archipelago made up of more than 80 Islands with the main and most inhabited island being resident to around 12,000 permanent residents, many of whom commute to Jazan for work. The island is known for its incredible biodiversity, thus being declared a protected area in 1996. Farasan boasts pristine coral reefs, a variety of fish and world-class birding for species including the white-eyed gull, the crab plover and the sooty falcon. Farasan is a very special place, which gives you an experience of true natural unspoilt beauty.
With evidence of human activity from as early as the beginning of the 1st millennium BC, civilizations have left their presence throughout history, including the Sabaeans, Romans, Aksumites, Ottomans, and Arabs. But Farasan isn’t necessarily famous for its human history, more so because of its incredible biodiversity as a marine sanctuary. The islands are famous for their mangrove forests a breeding ground for large numbers of birds. Its idyllic white shorelines and bucolic views have remained intact throughout history which allows visitors to enjoy the pristine beaches and crystal-clear shores.
Thursday morning began at 5 am, as we had to reach the ferry port an hour before departure, we ordered an Uber and waited for it to arrive. We were quoted a lower price, only to be quoted a higher price when we sat in the Uber. The driver complained about how Uber drivers only get a small cut of the fare, and that it wasn’t worth the journey. Being in a rush to the port, we agreed on a price and reached just in time.
The port check-in is similar to that of local airports, a security check is carried out as well as your luggage being scanned. A passport is not required but they require an Iqāmah ID card. The ferry departed on time and we reached the port of Jazan at 9 am. Once we came out of the port, there was a sea of taxi drivers waiting for passengers, pulling us towards them. We initially looked around to see if there were any companies offering car hire, but we were informed that car hire had ceased a couple of months prior to our arrival. Nevertheless, we found a taxi driver of Bangladeshi origin and we hired him for 24 hours for 300 riyals. This would include transport around the Island, and a tour to the main attractions Farasan has to offer.
With no plans to stay in Farasan initially, we had no prior bookings for hotels. Thus, the first place we asked the taxi driver to take us was a hotel with reasonable rates. We managed to find a room for the night for 300 riyals. We took our room, dropped our luggage off and made our way to some breakfast at a local Indian restaurant for some Eggs and Paratha. Throughout our trip we realized no city or village in Saudi Arabia is free from an Urdu or Bengali speaking uncle, thus a quick google search informs us that more than 38% of Saudi’s population is made up of immigrants.
Al-Qassar village
Our first stop was Al-Qassar village, one of the earliest inhabited settlements on the island. The centuries-old sandstone village is built of stone and palm leaves and is the largest palm oasis in the archipelago. The village which is well known for its abundance of palm and perennial trees, and freshwater wells was originally established as a summer resort. Its residents built their homes in an orderly manner, with 400 houses distributed over five lanes and separated by paths no more than 3 meters wide. The urban design of the village was a key consideration during renovation works that have turned it into a cultural landmark that retraces the history of the site and its inhabitants. We toured the area, visited the small historical mosque built in between the village and left for our next stop.
Ottoman Fort
The Ottoman Fort or Castle, also known as Qila’ al-Turk, is situated at an altitude of 10 metres above sea level and 50 kilometres from the Red Sea which allows you to enjoy the surrounding views from the castle. The Castle was used as a military base in the 20th century by the Ottomans. With the Heritage Commission taking control of historical landmarks within Saudi, most areas have been gated to protect the often centuries-old landmarks, thus at the fort, we were only able to see it from outside the gate.
Houses of Al-Rifāī’
Our next stop was one of the highlights of the Island, a stunning set of homes distinguished by the beauty of their designs and the splendour of their detailed inscriptions. Built in 1341 AH, the houses of Al-Rifāī’ are considered some of the oldest houses in Farasan, reflecting the excellent economic condition of the Farasan people. Al-Rifāī’s houses were built of stone slabs with stunning calligraphy of Qur’ānic verses that beautifully embody geometric and epigraphic motifs derived from Islamic arts. Javanese wood was imported and was used in the ceiling of the great sitting room. The homes are split into various sections, some rooms are for seating, and others are utilized as libraries or bedrooms.
During the booming pearl trade, which Farasan was once a major player in, this home belonged to Ahmed Munawar Al-Rifāī’ a known pearl trader in the early 20th century who built his house in 1922. The homes have a mix of Indian and Arab architecture possibly due to the owner’s wish for it to be reminiscent of his time trading in the Indian subcontinent.
Masjid Najdī
With Ẓuhr Ṣalāh approaching, we made our way to another historical landmark on the Island, Masjid Najdī. The historical Najdī Mosque was built in 1344 Hijri by Ibrāhīm Al-Tamīmī – known as Al-Najdī- who travelled extensively to the Indian sub-continent for trade. Al-Najdī was one of the largest pearl merchants on the island of Farasan. The Mosque is located in a densely populated neighbourhood, surrounded by a group of historical houses. The Mosque was built over a period of 13 years with the materials, paint and inscriptions being brought from India and architects from Yemen. Its walls are decorated with hollow ribs of plaster, and each of its windows is topped with stained glass. The arches are decorated with gypsum, and the wooden Mimbar and Meḥrāb came from India, which are distinguished by colourful decorations and inscriptions.
One of the main attractions on Farasan Island is the Mangrove trees located off the shore of the main Island. However, the area is only accessible near sunset when the tide has come in, allowing the boats to travel safely. With over 2 hours till sunset, we made our way to a local beach to enjoy the crystal-clear waters and white sandy beaches. We took a short stop at the ‘Mādī bridge’ which connects two of the islands and gives stunning views of the turquoise waters below. From the height of the bridge, you are able to clearly see the corals, as well as the shallow water between the crossing of the two bridges. The water was warm and perfect for a comfortable swim. The shallow water meant even if you walk 10- 15 metres or so from shore the water only reaches your waist, which gives a spectacular view of the fishes around you.
Ghābat ul-Qandal- Mangroves
Around 4.30 pm when the tide had begun to come in, we made our way to the small port where you are able to hire speed boats. The speed boats are considerably pricey at 500 riyals for a 2-hour trip. The first stop was at an isolated beach on one of the 80 remote islands which make up the archipelago. The boat dropped anchor at the shore and we were able to go for a swim in the sea. The temperature was warm and suitable for swimming, something which we’re not used to coming from the UK.
A further 30 mins into the boat ride lies the al-Qandal Forest, a crowd of mangrove trees with waterways cutting through them. At sunset, the forest is a sight to see, with the setting sun, the strong smell of mangrove and the sound of hundreds of species of birds chirping. Mangroves are tropical coastal vegetation which grow in saline or brackish water which support sustainable coastal and marine ecosystems and protect nearby areas from tsunamis and extreme weather events. They make for a stunning boat ride around their waterways. With Sūrah al-Raḥmān playing on the boat’s speaker system it was an ideal setting in a somewhat foreign paradise.
We returned to shore just after sunset, made our way to the hotel and rested for a short while before making our way to dinner. There are a few food places on the Island and all are within a walking distance of one another. We had dinner at a stone-baked pizza place, and thereafter returned to the hotel for the night. Although a short trip, Farasan Islands was incredible, a group of islands which are largely untouched and still retain their natural beauty. 90% of the Island is not developed and if it was to be it would surely be ‘The Maldives of Saudi Arabia’.
Day 10- Friday 2nd December
‘Aqabah Ẓī Man’ā’, Banū Sa’d,
Friday morning was an early start to catch the ferry at 7 am, we departed Farasan on time and reached Jazan just after 9 am. Our journey back to Madīnah would begin with a stop in Ṭāif for the night. Ṭāif itself lay 9hrs away at a distance of 720km. We made our way to the hotel we had stayed in whilst in Jazan collected our car and began our journey to Ṭāif.
Road to Ṭāif- ‘Aqabah Ẓī Man’ā’
The road to Ṭāif was long and tiring, but the time passed by with interesting discussions and a recital of Imām Nawaīs ‘Arba’īn. 6 hours into our journey, the route changed from highways to mountain roads. As we passed by Abha, unexpectedly, we fell upon a route up a mountain at an elevation of 2,500. The route known as ‘Aqabah Ẓī Man’ā’ is a daring route up zig-zag roads winding around the mountain. As we rose higher the sun fell beneath us and the clouds covered the view, the temperature grew colder and the fog lights came on as the view ahead was no more than 1 metre. As we reached the peak, the sun was no longer visible, and the clouds passed by us as we drove further into the mountain, eventually, as we descended the mountain the clouds slowly drifted and the view became clearer. The route we were taking was through tunnels burrowed through mountains and across large stretches of uninhabited areas. As night fell the roads became increasingly hazardous, with the occasional Bedouin overtaking with no headlights at 100kmph.
Banū Sa’d
Along our route to Ṭāif fell the now-developed town of Banū Sa’d. Banū Sa’d, a sub-group of the larger Hawāzin tribe had close relations with the Prophet ﷺ and had the honour of hosting the Prophet ﷺ as a child. It is where the Prophet ﷺ spent four years of his childhood with his foster mother Ḥalīma Sa’diyah who hails from the Banū Sa’d tribe. We had initially planned to reach before sunset and visit the homes of the Banū Sa’d. However, night had fallen and the roads were not getting any safer, thus, we decided to take a short break and continue the remaining one-hour journey to Ṭāif. We reached Ṭāif around 8 pm, checked in to our hotel, had some dinner and took a rest for the night.
Friday the 2nd of December went in travelling up to Ṭāif with no considerable places visited.
Day 11- Saturday 3rd December
Ṭāif, Masjid ‘Addās, Wādī Wajj, Masjid al-Madhūn, Masjid al-Kū’, Masjid Ibn ‘Abbas Old and New, Cable Cars, Al-Wahba Crater
Day 11, Saturday 3rd December marks the final day of our two-week road trip across Saudi Arabia. It began as an early morning start for Fajr followed by an early check out from our hotel in Ṭāif. Before leaving for Madīnah we planned to visit some of the historical landmarks Ṭāif has to offer including some Prophetic landmarks.
Ṭāif
Known as the summer capital of Saudi Arabia, Ṭāif is located on the eastern slopes of the Sarawat Mountains and about 1,700m above sea level. It increases in height as you head towards its southern rural areas, reaching a height of 2,400m, where you find its rich farms and lively traditions. It is extremely lush with greenery and blooming flowers and gives a feeling of a modern oasis amongst the harsh climate of Saudi’s deserts. Ṭāif is famously known to be where the Prophet ﷺ visited in the 7th Hijri to call its inhabitants to Islām. It was inhabited by the tribe of Banū Thaqīf and to this day their descendants reside within this city.
Masjid ‘Addās
Our first stop was the Masjid of ‘Addās, which was built on what was believed to be the house of ‘Addās. ‘Addās was the slave of ‘Utbah bin Rabī’ah and was the very man who fed the Prophet ﷺ grapes when he stopped in ‘Utbah’s orchard after he and his companion Zaid bin Ḥāritha were chased out by Ṭāif’s dwellers. ‘Addās was reputed to be the only convert that the Prophet ﷺ gained during his trip to Ṭāif. We were able to enter the Masjid and offer two Rakā’ah’s of Nafl prayer. Near the masjid is a tree which is where the Prophet ﷺ made the following Dua’:
“Oh Allāh, I complain to You my weakness, my lack of resources, and my lowliness before men. Oh, the Most Merciful! You are the Lord of the weak and You are my Lord. To whom will You relinquish my fate! To an enemy who will misuse me? Or to a closed person whom You have given power over me? If You are not angry with me then I care not what happens to me. Your favour is all that counts for me. I seek refuge in the light of Your countenance, by which all darkness is illuminated. And the things of this world and the next are rightly ordered that your anger doesn’t fall on me, nor your displeasure descends on me. To you is all supplications until You are pleased. There is no power and no might except in You.” [Ṭabrānī 315]
Wādī Wajj
As you come out of the Masjid complex you enter into the valley of Wajj, a blessed valley of Ṭāif through which the Prophet ﷺ passed by on more than one occasion, including the time when he came to Ṭāif to give Da’wah to the people. In some narrations, reported by Imām Bukhāri, Abū Dawūd and others we find mention that the Prophet ﷺ said that hunting in this valley is forbidden and so is pulling out any plants from it, due to its sanctity- similar to the two Ḥarams.
Masjid al-Madhūn
Masjid al-Madhūn is a small mosque opposite the garden of ‘Addās in Al-Mathnah neighbourhood. Built 162 years ago during the Ottoman era, the design of the mosque was inspired by Abbasid architecture and has retained its old-fashioned structure even on the inside. The mosque has a very distinctive minaret unlike any other, a circular minaret with a cylindrical body and a spherical peak. The masjid is gated and visitors are no longer able to enter.
Masjid al-Kū’
Situated a few minutes’ walk from Masjid al-Madhūn is Masjid al-Kū’, known as the stop mosque. It is believed that the Prophet ﷺ stood in this place when he arrived in Ṭāif, hence the name. It is also said that he leaned on a stone in the same place- the name ‘al-Kū’’, means elbow. The masjid was open and visitors are able to offer Ṣalāh inside.
Masjid Ibn ‘Abbās Old
Within the same area, atop a small hill is the old Masjid Ibn ‘Abbās. Built in 592 Hijri, the mosque is 852 years old. There is a visible niche for the Imām, but the Masjid doesn’t seem to be in use since the building of the new Masjid Ibn ‘Abbas in Ṭāif. Initially, we were unaware of there being two Masjids by the same name, after a quick google search, we made our way to the new building where the companion ‘Abdullāh ibn ‘Abbās (RA) is buried.
Masjid Ibn ‘Abbās New
Built in the year 592 AH during the reign of Al-Naṣr al- ‘Abbāsī, Masjid ibn ‘Abbās was built next to the final resting place of the famous companion and Qur’anic exegetist ‘Abdullāh ibn ‘Abbās. The mosque has gone through various expansions and refurbishments with the latest one taking place in the era of King Sa’ūd. The grave of ‘Ibn ‘Abbās is located in front of the woman’s prayer hall. The Masjid was closed at the time we arrived, thus we continued to our next stop.
We had initially planned to book the cable cars the night before, which take you from the top of the mountain to a small water park and garden at the bottom of the valley. However, when we checked the prices online, they were extortionate. Luckily, as we were about to leave the car park of Masjid Ibn ‘Abbās a Syrian man came to us, he showed us pictures and videos of the cable cars and other activities which the company offers, and offered tickets at a cheaper price. We were reluctant on buying tickets from him and we said we would call him from the ticket booth. Once we reached the ticket booth, we called him, his colleague came from behind the booth and gave us tickets at a discounted price of 65 riyals which were originally 100 riyals.
Cable Cars
The route of the cable car begins from the highest mountain, Jabal al Hada and leads down through the old pedestrian road towards Al-Kar, a tourist village which is situated at the bottom of the Karakoram Mountain Range. These two sites make up the upper and lower stations of the Taif Cable Cars. This offers a nice ride up and down the hill in the cable car, with spectacular views of the village and mountain. The cable car journey is incredible, giving you a view as far as the eye can see and passes over the old route made of stones which the people would take travelling to Ṭāif. Although we hear of the hardships the Prophet ﷺ faced in Ṭāif, we don’t make mention of the arduous and perilous route the Prophet ﷺ took to reach the people of Ṭāif.
After a 20 min journey, we were dropped off at the top of the mountain where we set off on our return leg back to Madīnah. Initially, we had planned to return direct to Madīnah, however, a friend suggested making a stop at the Al-Wahba crater which would be a 15 min detour from the usual route. We left Ṭāif after noon and reached the crater after 3 pm.
Al-Wahba Crater
Measuring 4km wide and 250 meters deep, the sprawling Al Wahba crater is one of Saudi Arabia’s most dramatic natural wonders: a vast hollow with an opaque lake at its heart. The crater was once thought to have been formed by a meteorite crashing to earth, but research by geologists in the 1960s revealed Al-Wahba to be a maar crater. The shallow hollows are caused by volcanic eruptions that occur when groundwater comes into contact with hot lava. Located miles away from any town city or village, a single paved road leads you to the crater’s edge. The area is developed with viewing spots built for tourists and a small centre built with a Masjid. however, the Masjid and centre have been closed since before the COVID pandemic.
We tried to take our car to one of the viewing spots but were stopped by a shabby-looking Pathan who came out of a small hut wrapped in his shawl. He told us we weren’t allowed to go any further or he would call the police. We got out of the car explored the area and went to the man to ask where to pray Ṣalāh. His initial confrontation seemed defensive but within a couple minutes the conversation became friendly and he allowed us to use his own bathroom and water to make Whudū. We prayed Ṣalāh with the man and sat down to talk with him. He was from Peshawar and had been stationed here for the past 5 years and had been alone ever since, he hadn’t left the area for the past 2 years and only walks to the nearest supermarket once a week for groceries. He apologised for his initial confrontation as he thought us to be troublemakers- something which he said he was used to from Saudi youngsters. The area is dangerous at night as youngsters get up to no good in these remote spots, causing trouble for the caretakers. A couple of years ago 2 Saudis lost their lives going down the crater and ever since it has been closed off from public entry. Despite the little he had, his hospitality was heart-warming, even though we tried to take our leave, he insisted on sharing some fruit with him. We sat with him for a while, gave him some company and then left for the final stretch back to Madīnah
We arrived in Madīnah at 6:45 pm- marking the end of our trip.
